Los Islotes & Isla Espiritu Santo
Who would have thought that we could have a White Christmas in Baja California? Well Los Islotes, the islets, did give us this experience. A whitewash of guano covers the volcanic rocks that provide perches and nesting sites for boobies, yellow-footed gulls, Brandt’s cormorants, and other seabirds. Blue-footed boobies favored flat spots with enough room for courtship dancing, and brown boobies chose lower sites. Vultures and frigatebirds stood on rocks, and then launched into the updrafts created by the warming landscape of morning.
In addition to the birds, California sea lions congregate at this site. We could hear the barking of the adult males from the decks of the National Geographic Sea Bird as she dropped anchor in the island’s lee. After breakfast we boarded Zodiacs for a closer look at the islands and their inhabitants.
Sea lions slept on narrow ledges or basked in shifting piles of blubbery bodies. Dark males may weigh 600 to 800 pounds or more, while the much smaller blond females reach only 200 to 250 pounds. After viewing these magnificent creatures by Zodiac, we donned snorkel gear to explore the underwater world.
Schools of reef fish swam by without a concern about the strange creatures in wetsuits. Damselfish protectively guarded their territories, and king angelfish gracefully glided along in pairs. The peaceful scene was interrupted by curious young sea lions checking out the new toys that had suddenly appeared. They streaked past groups of snorkelers, and then paused for better looks. The two very different kinds of mammals seemed to have a mutual fascination for each other. It was a thrill to see these wild creatures at such close range, twisting and swirling in the cool water. In time, we all returned to our ship and left our playful companions behind.
The ship motored south and reached the afternoon destination of Bonanza Bay. An expansive white-sand beach stretched in an immense crescent, separating the thick desert vegetation from the sea. It was a beautiful location for a long hike to a high ridge overlooking the scenic bay so far below. Others opted for medium or short nature walks or for beachcombing along the shore. What a different way to spend Christmas, enjoying the wonders of Baja California and the Sea of Cortez.
Throughout the day the galley staff had busily prepared an elaborate Christmas dinner. We entered the dining room and feasted on turkey, lamb, salmon and a full array of wonderful delicacies. After eating, a special event drew us to the top deck for a final celebration of the holiday. A colorfully decorated piñata was rigged up in readiness for a traditional smashing. The young guests on board took turns swinging with the Mexican piñata song in the background. An occasional whack released a few goodies. The final blow sent candy flying in all directions, but it didn’t take long for small hands to grab and hoard the spoils.
What a fun time for our last evening together aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird.
