Islas Partida & Espiritu Santo
The moon illuminated the dawn sky well before sunrise, and then slowly sank behind the Baja California peninsula before breakfast. Our ship lay at anchor in a sheltered cove deeply incised into the cliffs of Isla Partida. Zodiacs carried us to a lovely beach for a variety of morning activities. A number of energetic hikers followed a rocky ravine into the interior and finally reached the crest for a spectacular view. Shorter walks allowed time for kayaking or snorkeling.
Clear, teal-colored water contrasted with pink deposits of volcanic tuff that rose from the sea. Over time, differential erosion has sculpted the shoreline into fantastic shapes. The outermost layers look like frosting dripping down over the softer material underneath. Overhangs and ceilings of small caves looked like honeycombs turned to stone.
It was difficult to leave such an idyllic spot, but it was time for the National Geographic Sea Bird to relocate to the southern end of nearby Isla Espiritu Santo for the afternoon. Along the way, bottlenose dolphins approached the ship and maneuvered into position just ahead of the bow where the pressure wave gives them a free ride. Not only could we hang over the rail to see these streamlined creatures, but we also could see them from within the lounge. An underwater camera on the hull tracked the animals and displayed their movements on the television screen. The dolphins eventually veered off, and we resumed our course. Dr. John Francis, with the National Geographic Society, then offered an informative presentation about sea lions and their relatives, animals that he has studied extensively in different locations.
A sandy beach invited us ashore once we had anchored. Scattered groups wandered off to beachcomb or stroll along the shore. Many remained at the landing site to relax or play. Hikers set off on guided walks to get some exercise and to explore the desert, keeping alert for the endemic black jackrabbits. Our efforts were rewarded with several sightings.
At 6 o’clock, dinner was served. The chefs and crew provided a delicious barbecue on the beach as the full moon rose. Although golden in color, it was nevertheless a blue moon, the second full moon in a single month. The moonlight danced on the water, and we lingered by a flickering bonfire. What a great way to celebrate New Year’s Eve!