Sea Lions at Los Islotes
Today we awoke at Los Islotes, at the north end of Bahia La Paz. Los Islotes is home to about 150 sea lions, and visiting them is lots of fun! We saw ‘lions by land from our trusty Zodiacs. The sea lions here are used to boat traffic, and so are comfortable with close approach. We found them sprawled over the rocks, seemingly boneless in relaxation. They were at once graceful and ungainly in the postures they struck. While most of the sea lions seemed to be sleeping, it was hard to see how. The whole place resounded with their goofy barks and their pathetic yet comical trumpeting screams. While ‘lions love company, they seem unable to get truly comfortable without a mort of squabbling, accompanied by outraged cries.
On land, sea lions seem ungainly, and, if alarmed, race about in a rolling high-speed waddle. In the sea, they are transformed into beings of consummate grace and celerity. We donned snorkel gear to observe them, and, garishly colored, found ourselves to be comically slow and clumsy. Meanwhile, like frisky greyhound puppies, the lions sped around us like turbo-charged ballerinas.
After lunch, we dropped anchor in a cove cut deeply into Isla Partida. The volcanic tuff here has been carved into weird and beautiful forms, like melting strawberry ice cream. The snowy beach and azure water seem like a slice of the Caribbean. Many paddled through this pastel landscape by kayak. Once ashore, we walked through an arroyo cut by rare but powerful floods. Contrary to expectation, the dry landscape was rich in vegetation. Cardon and organ pipe cacti towered above the desert floor. Chollas bristled with menacing spines. Morning glory sprawled over sand or branches, bearing cerulean blossoms. All sorts of animals enlivened the landscape. Antelope ground squirrels scuttled about the rocks, and from the cliff sides dripped the rich descending whistle of the canyon wren.
Today, as usual, Baja California surpassed expectation with its richness, complexity and beauty.
