Alert Bay, British Columbia
Imagine you are sailing on a steamship 100 years ago exploring British Columbia’s inside passage. Through thick fog the ship approaches the remote shores of Alert Bay, on Cormorant Island in the shadow of Vancouver Island.
Sloshing ashore to a shingle beach, you notice the sweet aroma of cedar smoke infusing the damp, salty air. As the familiar calls of ravens echo from the forest, you begin to see totem poles rising through the mist. Then you hear the sound of distant drums.
The wooden door creaks as you enter the big house. Your eyes sting from the smoke but you make out fanciful forms circling around the fire. Like ghosts, the masked dancers twirl to the haunting rhythm of the drums. Singers dressed in colorful blankets chant in unison.
You are welcomed to the sacred ceremony of the Kwakwaka’wakw people. It is a feast, or potlatch, and a gathering out-of-time where the First Nation’s people celebrate the naming of children, a marriage, or perhaps memorialize their dead. The dance procession continues, each with his or her own elaborate costume. A great feast of salmon and other riches from the sea is shared by all.
Like a dream, you find yourself dancing with the others. You twirl alongside the elders. And the children. The day is gone and night has come. Gifts are presented and the chiefs make speeches. This is the way of the people. All seem happy and well cared for.
Fast forward to 1922 when all the artifacts were seized and hidden away in museums. Potlatches are outlawed. Hearts are broken, and the traditions of a rich culture shattered.
Today, the healing process continues. The collection of historical Potlatch items has been returned and are on display at the U’mista Cultural Centre. The children are being taught the dances, how to carve the masks, and sew the blankets. The rich traditions of the Kwakwaka’wakw are being passed on by the elders. Hopefully, it’s not too late.