George Island, Elfin Cove, Inian Islands

This morning the National Geographic Sea Bird awoke to sunshine and sea otters in Idaho Inlet. Our first encounter with this member of the weasel family and smallest of marine mammals, the sea otters entertained us with their play and cute demeanor. Playing such a significant role in the history of Alaska we felt privileged to see an animal that neared extinction during the period of Russian America.

From Idaho Inlet we continued to George Island to explore the forest, shore and inter-tidal. Hikers wandered amongst spruce and hemlock with some making it to the 6' naval pedestal gun placed in 1940-42 as a temporary emergency battery for the US Army. Remains of a small army camp dotted the forest with fallen Quonset huts, large boilers and an ammunition magazine. World War II forever changed the face of Alaska in terms of population buildup, transportation networks and infrastructure. We could only imagine what life was like for the poor souls who were assigned to George Island while realizing the lives of many dealt with more severe consequences as the Japanese bombed Dutch Harbor and occupied the Aleutian Islands of Attu and Kiska.

Along the coastal cliffs kayakers hugged the shore and in the wake of a low tide were revealed the diverse creatures of the inter-tidal. Zodiac explorers had close encounters with Megaptera novaengliae (big winged New Englander), also known as the humpback whale.

After lunch we visited the enclave of Elfin Cove and had the opportunity to compliment our experience of amazing landscape by learning about the culture of the people who choose to live in remote Alaska. Travis, one of the islands few year round residents, spoke to us about life in the day of a fishing community.

The day was not over yet as what lay in store was an experience that will forever remain imprinted in our memories of wild Alaska. The Steller sea lion (now listed as endangered in parts of the state) was one of a few animals first described by naturalist Georg Steller on Vitus Bering’s fateful voyage. The largest member of the eared seals, the Steller Sea Lion is found on remote haul-outs and rookeries throughout coastal Alaska. Large males most likely en route to breeding rookeries dominated the rocky outcrops here in Cross Sound, while females and juveniles enjoyed their rest from a life that is largely pelagic.