Umatilla National Wildlife Range, Columbia River

Another description of “The Steppes of Eastern Washington & Oregon” is “High Desert.” Our eastward journey, under sunny skies, revealed the agricultural bounty of Oregon and Washington. Along the shorelines on both sides, despite glimpses of an occasional 100-plus car train and highway vehicle, guests had spectacular views of small riverside parks, grain elevators, soaring basalt formations, and irregularly-shaped vineyards. The naturalists held audiences in thrall on the National Geographic Sea Bird bow (thanks in part to sunshine and balmy temperatures) while describing a landscape that seemed at odds with the plush greenery and Cascade mountains on the west side.

Within the Umatilla National Wildlife Range – binoculars at the ready – the Blaylock Islands were seen, lumps of earth held in reverence by generations of Native peoples. On the Oregon (south) shore great fields of sugar beets, potatoes, melons, wheat, asparagus (already picked), and onions dominate the land. Washington (north side) revealed slopes of bright green sprawling vineyards, more wheat and a parade of basalt sculptures overlooking the water.

The historian opened the Lewis & Clark door (Park II in two days,) setting the scene with the background of imperialistic forces, fur trade, the Enlightenment and Mr. Jefferson. After taking the Corps to Astoria, the next presentation will describe how and why this amazing trek contributed to a unique Westward Movement, the eventual withdrawal of Russia, England, France and Spain from the scene, and the appearance of a sea-to-sea America as we know it today.

Columbia River dams, several over 100-feet in height, never fail to draw interest. Staff narrated our transit through these monoliths, noting fish ladders, power houses, spillways, river traffic and wildlife. In daylight we got a close look at John Day and McNary dams, among the largest and most dramatic of the route. Historic aboriginal rights were described and guests were primed for a discussion later in the week about threats to the salmon populations.