Glacier Bay – Tarr Inlet, Margerie & Grand Pacific Glacier

In the wee hours of the morning the National Geographic Sea Lion lifted her anchor and began a slow passage towards the entrance of Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Sixteen separate glaciers flow out of the Saint Elias Mountains into the two arms of Glacier Bay. The park encompasses 3.3 million acres of ice, mountains, water and forest. Our first stop was at the dock in Bartlett Cove, where two Glacier Bay national park rangers were waiting to spend the day on the National Geographic Sea Lion and give us their perceptions of this extraordinary park. Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve was designated a national monument in 1925. Its purpose was to preserve the glacial environment and plant communities for public enjoyment, scientific study, and historic interest. Expanded several times, Glacier Bay was redesignated a national park and preserve in 1980. In 1986 UNESCO named the park a Biosphere Reserve. In 1992 it was listed as a World Heritage Site, the principal international recognition given to natural and cultural areas of universal significance.

Marylou Blakeley and Lindsey Thomas gave a brief introduction just after breakfast, only to be interrupted by a call from the bridge of the National Geographic Sea Lion; mountain goats had been sighted near Tlingit Point, just south of Tidal Inlet. As we cruised close to shore one goat after another was spotted. They were still in their winter coats and were strikingly beautiful against the rock cliffs of the shore line. These animals were still near their late winter, early spring home along the snow free areas close to the shoreline. Foraging for lichens and new shoots of plants, mountain goats use their specially equipped hooves fitted with cushioned pads, to clamber up and down many a sheer rock wall searching for food. As we moved northwest up Tarr Inlet those of us who remained on the bow counted more than 50 mountain goats. There were running goats, sleeping goats, and many a goat just watching the National Geographic Sea Lion watching goats!

Quoting our youngest guest, nine year-old Rachael Rene Kinser : “I saw 7 mountain goats today, and some were babies. Mountain goats look like the top of a Q-tip on a mountain. But they are actually quite large. Mountain goats are very cool animals.”

Continuing our passage, we slowly moved out of the rain and into sunny skies as we headed towards the face of two glaciers located at the head of Tarr Inlet. When explorer Capt. George Vancouver found Icy Strait choked with ice in 1794, Glacier Bay was a barely indented glacier. The glacier was more than 4,000 feet thick, up to 20 miles or more across and extended more than 100 miles to the St. Elias Range of mountains. By 1879 when John Muir visited Glacier Bay for the first time, that same ice wall had retreated 48 miles up bay. By 1916 the face of Grand Pacific glacier was 65 miles up Tarr Inlet and part of one of the most rapid glacial retreats in recorded history.

Just after lunch the National Geographic Sea Lion arrived in front of Margerie and Grand Pacific glaciers. The southerly winds that had pushed the National Geographic Sea Lion throughout the day continued to push the vessel as our second mate Miranda Caldwell expertly maneuvered the National Geographic Sea Lion for excellent views of both glaciers. After approximately one hour it was time to move south, into the stiff early spring winds, heading for our evening destination of Bartlett Cove. The down bay cruise was spectacular. The snow covered mountains of Glacier Bay glistened over choppy waters as many of us remained on deck enthralled by the raw and wild beauty that Glacier Bay is renowned for through out the world! Wispy clouds cast shadows on snowy mountains dressed in white all the way to the steely colored waters edge.

The National Geographic Sea Lion explored several other inlets on its way south giving us all many opportunities to spend time watching the passing of stunning scenery. During our evening recap our National park ranger Marylou left us with a small request; take a story home, remember this place, remember all places that have touched our hearts and tell that story; and for us today, this place called Glacier Bay will remain alive and will be passed on to those we care for at home.