George Island & Icy Straits

Throughout the night the National Geographic Sea Lion had motored north to reach Icy Strait, an area rich in wildlife as well as human history. The influence of the open Pacific creates an environment different from that of the more sheltered Inside Passage. Kelp forests, sea otters, and Steller sea lions are abundant. Birdlife abounds, and different species such as kittiwakes and rhinoceros auklets thrive here.

George Island, our first stop of the day, was inhabited by about 40 men during World War II to help in the defense against Japan. The landscape is still scattered with evidence of this presence. It was interesting to investigate the remains of broken-down buildings and an old canon as we hiked through the forest. Kayakers and Zodiac cruisers launched from the cobble beach to explore by sea. A low tide exposed vast expanses of rocks covered with seaweeds and other intertidal life. We discovered purple and orange ochre sea stars along with leather and sunflower stars. Olive-green ropes of bull kelp surrounded the island like rubbery hoses, creating an undersea garden inhabited by an immense variety of fish and invertebrates.

The residents of Elfin Cove welcomed us ashore after lunch. It did not take long to walk the boardwalk loop within this protected harbor to get a glimpse of the lifestyle within this isolated community. The dock where we landed provides space for float planes and fishing boats and access to the town itself. What many don’t realize is that there is another community beneath the water’s surface. By leaning over the edge, one can find sea anemones including those in the photo, bright orange sea cucumbers, feather-duster worms, and tiny jellyfish. The minutes passed quickly, and all too soon it was time to return to the ship.

The anchor dropped again only a short distance away. We again boarded Zodiacs, this time to search for Northern, or Steller sea lions and more sea otters. We were not disappointed. A nearby island provides an excellent haul-out for resting sea lions, and numerous brown bodies cluttered the lower rocks. Other individuals swam between the islands, sometimes looking curiously at the strange creatures in the bobbing rubber boats within their realm. Sea otters vigorously groomed their luxurious coats. The one in the picture munched on its dinner.

Next, our attention turned to our own dinner, but as we finished, an announcement of whales drew us outside for one more adventure for the day. We lingered with about half a dozen humpbacks into the late evening. It was a perfect finale for a wonderfully full and varied day.