Sitkoh Bay and Kelp Bay
In Southeast Alaska, there are a rare few days that really feel like “summer”, and this was one of them. Today was a day of sunshine and exuberant activity. Morning found us at Sitkoh Bay, on Chichagof Island. Kayakers paddled the tranquil shoreline, Zodiac riders explored, while hikers walked through tall shady old growth forest to reach a small dirt road over bowered with Red Alder arching toward sunlight. There was bear signs along the way, and newly sprouted mushrooms, and edible plants to examine and sample. Our hiking trail left the road to clamber down and cross a creek, pausing to look at river otter tracks, and entered a huge beautiful meadow. The signs that this place is affected by the highest tides were there before us and even reflected in the names of some plants: beach grass, beach greens and beach asparagus. Shallow pools of water left by the last high tide showed seaweed and small fishes. We decided to set out to explore the whole route of this water, to walk the meadow edge to where our big bowl of wildflowers, sedges, and grasses come out to the sea. And so we did, emerging on a rocky beach far from our starting point. There were stranded jellyfish and shells to see along the way, the forest green and the water sparkling clear in sunlight. In spite of our healthy snacking, we called for a Zodiac to make it back for lunch.
The ship repositioned while we were eating, a short distance to a place on Baranof Island called Kelp Bay. This, too, was quintessential Alaskan summer. Bald eagles and harbor seals by their persistent and abundant presence near our anchorage provided a clue that the salmon run here has begun, and still, the sun shone on. Once again, we rallied forth, kayaking, Zodiac cruising and hiking. On the calm water the kayakers and Zodiac riders could venture all the way across the bay – just a bit too far away to see a person standing on the far shore without binoculars – to a fantastic waterfall, or paddle up the beginning of the salmon stream on incoming tide, against the river and a breeze. Harbor seals trailed us, and a giant bald eagle nest perched on the top of a tree that crowned the point at the river mouth. Marbled murrelets dove and mew gulls dipped for dinner, and in the distance loud oystercatcher calls sounded. Around the bay each tall mountain was revealed by this clear day in all its glory of rock and snow and alpine meadow.
Hikers explored the banks of the salmon stream and the meadows and forest beyond. It was another foraging trip, an opportunity to taste a few wild greens and berries, and a chance to stretch out and breathe deeply the pristine air. Tracks in the mud showed the recent passing of a big brown bear, river otters and mink. Giant showy blue flag iris flowers and other blooms provided a party for our eyes, and deliciously scented bog orchids a treat for noses. In the peat bog meadow, cotton grass sent its fluffy seeds out on the breeze, like dandelions blown by children making wishes; sufficient, it seemed, to carry the wishes of the world. If days were meals, this day would be a feast.
