Cabo San Lucas & Gorda Banks
Lands End is at the tip of Baja California. It was washed with golden light as the National Geographic Sea Lion gently pushed between the granite spires. The sea here is a dynamic cauldron of ocean swells that pushes water into narrow passageways that are emptied as the surge recedes. Most of the California sea lions were still asleep on a flat rock. Pelicans and frigatebirds dropped from their perches to gain air speed and glide out over the sport-fishing boats heading south. A few hundred years ago pirates waited for Spanish galleons here. Those ships were full of riches to plunder as they returned from the Philippines. There have been many changes here since then, but the locals still reap the wealth from travelers from the north.
Most of us spent our morning in San Jose del Cabo exploring the lanes and shops, taking photos and birding in the estero of this upscale town. Birders and photographers not only enjoyed seeing two of Baja’s endemic species, the Xantus’s hummingbird and Belding’s yellowthroat, but also had great views of the elegant black-necked stilt and the great egret. This estuary is in the center of town. When city fathers have the foresight to protect a segment of wildness for people to enjoy, they embellish lives for generations. The vigilance necessary to protect this place is waning. Growth is placing pressures upon this resource that probably won’t allow it to survive.
The deep blue waters of the Pacific soon became our refuge again as we headed for the gulf. There was a lot to see. Thurston’s devil rays or mobulas flipped head over tails in the distance. These relatives of manta rays feed on krill and are common in the gulf and off the tip of Baja California. A hammerhead shark swam along with us for a few minutes. Its wide-spaced eyes and other senses help it to judge distance. The most intriguing sightings were of humpback whales.
Humpbacks pass through this part of Baja California from mainland Mexico and the Revillagigedo Islands south of here. They often allow us great whale watching. Today was no exception. We dropped our hydrophone into the clear water to listen for vocalizations. We heard wails, screams and groans but not with the regularity and intensity of a full humpback song. We saw several different groups. A cow and calf with a third whale were the most interesting. Cow and calf pairs sometimes have an escort with them. Other males try to become escorts by fighting for the position next to the female. This often leaves white scar tissue over the dorsal fin and tailstock of the males like this third animal had. Perhaps this was an escorted cow and calf. We watched them as long as we could, but they were taking us in the wrong direction. Soon we were bouncing gently as we headed into swells and on to the Sea of Cortez.
Lands End is at the tip of Baja California. It was washed with golden light as the National Geographic Sea Lion gently pushed between the granite spires. The sea here is a dynamic cauldron of ocean swells that pushes water into narrow passageways that are emptied as the surge recedes. Most of the California sea lions were still asleep on a flat rock. Pelicans and frigatebirds dropped from their perches to gain air speed and glide out over the sport-fishing boats heading south. A few hundred years ago pirates waited for Spanish galleons here. Those ships were full of riches to plunder as they returned from the Philippines. There have been many changes here since then, but the locals still reap the wealth from travelers from the north.
Most of us spent our morning in San Jose del Cabo exploring the lanes and shops, taking photos and birding in the estero of this upscale town. Birders and photographers not only enjoyed seeing two of Baja’s endemic species, the Xantus’s hummingbird and Belding’s yellowthroat, but also had great views of the elegant black-necked stilt and the great egret. This estuary is in the center of town. When city fathers have the foresight to protect a segment of wildness for people to enjoy, they embellish lives for generations. The vigilance necessary to protect this place is waning. Growth is placing pressures upon this resource that probably won’t allow it to survive.
The deep blue waters of the Pacific soon became our refuge again as we headed for the gulf. There was a lot to see. Thurston’s devil rays or mobulas flipped head over tails in the distance. These relatives of manta rays feed on krill and are common in the gulf and off the tip of Baja California. A hammerhead shark swam along with us for a few minutes. Its wide-spaced eyes and other senses help it to judge distance. The most intriguing sightings were of humpback whales.
Humpbacks pass through this part of Baja California from mainland Mexico and the Revillagigedo Islands south of here. They often allow us great whale watching. Today was no exception. We dropped our hydrophone into the clear water to listen for vocalizations. We heard wails, screams and groans but not with the regularity and intensity of a full humpback song. We saw several different groups. A cow and calf with a third whale were the most interesting. Cow and calf pairs sometimes have an escort with them. Other males try to become escorts by fighting for the position next to the female. This often leaves white scar tissue over the dorsal fin and tailstock of the males like this third animal had. Perhaps this was an escorted cow and calf. We watched them as long as we could, but they were taking us in the wrong direction. Soon we were bouncing gently as we headed into swells and on to the Sea of Cortez.
