Isla Partida & Los Islotes

The islands of Espiritu Santo, Partida and Los Islotes extend north as part of a giant hook that forms La Paz Bay. Throughout the day we explored this region in almost every way imaginable. During the morning kayakers slid into their colorful plastic vessels to paddle the teal-colored water within one of the many incised coves of Isla Partida. Photographers boarded Zodiacs to take advantage of these striking colors in search of the perfect photograph in the morning light. Intricately shaped volcanic rock also provided photo opportunities. Differential weathering has sculpted the pink tuff into smooth, undercut cliffs covered with more resistant layers that look like dripping frosting turned to stone, and erosion has carved caves with honeycombed ceilings.

Hikers entered a scenic canyon flanked by rugged red walls of rock. One group scrambled over huge boulders to reach the crest of the island with the reward of magnificent views. Most walkers remained in the lowlands where the desert revealed one secret after another. The red buds of prickly pear cacti swelled with hidden blossoms yet to come. Tissue-paper petals of several newly opened flowers decorated the stout pancake pads in pale yellow. At least five species of lizards basked in the welcome sun or dashed into hiding at our approach. This group of islands is home to some endemic mammals, types found here and nowhere else in the world. The black jackrabbit eluded us, but the local antelope ground squirrels seemed to almost show-off with their antics. These well-adapted rodents bounded across the path then scrambled into the prickly cholla cacti in pursuit of ripening fruits. Now and then dragonflies, carpenter bees, and spider wasps flitted through the desert landscape.

During the afternoon snorkelers braved the 68-degree water where sea lions, urchins, sea stars and dazzling fish species make their homes. The undersea specialist filmed this underwater fairyland and shared his footage with us later at the evening recap. In addition to the king angelfish, blue-and-gold snappers, giant damselfish and other typical species, he recorded one Chancho surgeonfish, a species more often found well to the south of here.

Another chance for Zodiac tours culminated the day’s outdoor activities. The limp bodies of California sea lions crowded together in haphazard aggregations along the shore. Athletic individuals scrambled high onto the rocks, seeking perches well above water level. The bird life added to the bustling intensity of the islets. Blue-footed boobies engaged in courtship and mating activity, while brown boobies preened and rested. Surprisingly, a masked booby perched on the rocks among its much more common relatives. Frigatebirds circled overhead in endless circles almost without a flap.

The ship tucked into a quiet bay for the evening as the peach-colored sunset faded into darkness. It was a peaceful end to our first full day in the Gulf of California.