Hiking in Ensenada Grande, Isla Espiritu Santo & An Afternoon at Los Islotes with California Sea Lions

Early this morning, the National Geographic Sea Lion journeyed to the second anchorage of our trip that provided protection from the El Norte wind. Captain Graves maneuvered our vessel into a long bay leading up to a white sand beach and an arroyo leading into and up through the unusual volcanic rock formations characteristic of Isla Espiritu Santo.

Just after breakfast we all gathered on the aft two hundred deck in preparation for our morning ashore exploring Ensenada Grande. The long hike would take a large part of our group to the very top of the highest ridges that looked out over the island we were exploring. The added elevation of our hike allowed us to see several of the other islands moving up the Gulf of California side of the Baja peninsula like a necklace of volcanic formations punching up through the sea. This first group off the beach and up the arroyo made their way, largely by scrambling over boulders the size of small and large appliances. The calls of Canyon wrens echoed off the walls of the arroyo and this group made it to their destination in record time and for some of our smaller scramblers another mountain peak was added to their climb. The rest of the group enjoyed the accomplishment of a tough climb and the magnificent view, and a slight rest before the downward return to the beach.

The two moderate hikes met at the amphitheatre, about half way up the arroyo for a close and personal experience with a very rare plant for this dry climate. Desert ferns grow underneath small-protected rock formations, standing no more than two inches tall. When just the right amount of water in the form of rain falls, this plant will show off the typical leaf pattern one would see a fern dressed in throughout the world. Sadly, this early winter the climate has been very dry and the gold-backed ferns had folded their fronds in a pose of self-preservation, we would like to think, in hopes of a winter rain sometime soon.

Once our two groups gathered together we paused, rested, told stories, enjoyed a blessing, sang, tested the echo, and then also began our return to the beach and waiting Zodiacs ready to return everyone to the NG Sea Lion and a much-earned traditional Mexican lunch!

As soon as lunch was over and the crew and staff had secured the ship the NG Sea Lion began a short journey heading north towards Los Islotes. Our afternoon would be spent enjoying another opportunity to snorkel, with the added attraction of being in the water with California sea lions.

The snorkeling boat was anchored and shuttles began taking our group and many crewmembers to one of the more special experiences of our trip: being Face to face with a very playful, agile, big-eyed, gorgeous, though wild, animal. Diving, making loops underwater and generally finding ways to entertain our hosts, 56 of our group entered the warm waters surrounding Los Islotes to enjoy a lifetime experience of snorkeling with California Sea lions. Laughter, giggles, and even a few quiet moments were enjoyed by many of our group, as we all stayed in the water as long as we remained warm, having a romp and quite obviously entertaining the sea lions.

The El Norte wind had continued to blow with very little drop in velocity. Zodiac tours were offered along the lee side of Los Islotes. Magnificent frigate and Blue footed boobies were both spotted in full display, while the sea lions struck some incredible poses in a variety of unbelievable spots along this protected side of the island.

Just before sunset the National Geographic Sea Lion headed back to the protection of Ensenada Grande and a quiet night at anchor. Our hopes were for the wind to decrease and our adventures in this desert by the sea to continue to unfold; revealing a few more of the hidden mysteries that make the Baja peninsula and the Gulf of California such an enticing place to visit.