Gorda Banks

On the southern tip of Baja, another day at sea started at 5 am to a sky full of stars and constellations. As we left the Pacific and entered the Sea of Cortez we stood on the bow of the National Geographic Sea Lion viewing the remnants of the Southern Cross, while waiting for the sun to show us its magnificent colors. We had an unbelievable night of gentle sea conditions that rocked us to sleep in anticipation of a day full of whales!

The weather has bowed in our favor the entire voyage. As our day unfolded, we were all thankful for the wonderful hours of sleep and perfect conditions. Today was jam-packed with beauty, action and spontaneity!

We arrived in the small town of San Jose Del Cabo, which is just north of the bustling town of Cabo San Lucas. San Jose Del Cabo was once a small fishing village and has turned into a quaint community full of culture and hospitality. Some of us went birding and others explored the local artisan shops and galleries.

Soon we were underway, heading north to Gorda Banks. Gorda Banks in known for having a large population of humpback whales. These humpbacks spend their winters feeding in the colder waters of Oregon and Washington. In the Sea of Cortez, they come to fast, mate, and give birth to their calves. The warm weather and glassy waters cleared a path for a wonderful day at sea!

After lunch, Naturalist, Alberto, got everyone moving about the decks by proclaiming, “Whales are everywhere out here!” Many of us scrambled to the bow to witness a group of five humpbacks courting a receptive female. The fluke show was impressive as the males battled to win the affection of one lucky female. She led the eager group into her fluke-prints with a trail of her pheromones. The males wove around her, chin slapping and tail lobbing to gain her attention and affection. In every direction, Mobula rays flew out of the water. We also noticed a hammerhead shark skimming the waters just feet from our bow. With robust arched backs the humpbacks continued diving and surfacing with boisterous exhalations. As we admired their fluke prints, we wondered how it would all turn out. Soon they joined another group of whales that were also displaying similar behavior. All the while, two rambunctious sea lions played off the stern.

Soon we dropped the hydrophone into the water from the bow. Immediately, we heard the songs of the male humpbacks. While we listened to the songs of the males we learned that all pacific humpbacks sing the same song even with many miles between them. We were in awe of the melodies coming from theses magnificent creatures.

The sounds of the zodiacs being lowered into the water filled the air and Expedition Leader Michelle Graves announced an impromptu swim! In all the years of the National Geographic Sea Lion, guests have never experienced swimming off of the stern in Gorda Banks. This was a cool ending to a warm day in the Sea of Cortez!

Embarking the ship, we were again surrounded by humpbacks and huge Mobula rays. The Baja California sky was filled with hues of fuchsia and ember as the sun set.