Exploring Coastal British Columbia
A dim indigo sky spanned above us before dawn, contrasting with the dark shoulders of surrounding hills as the morning sky slowly brightened. Our ship was peacefully resting in the calm waters of Aaltanash Inlet, set amid the forested mountains of British Columbia. This secluded wilderness bay resides along an uninhabited stretch of the mainland coast of Canada. As the morning sunlight beamed down into the bay, slender wisps and ribbons of mist drifted along its fringes. We boarded Zodiacs for walks ashore and Zodiac explorations of this scenic bay.
Some hikers were able to walk on a defined trail through the forest, while others resorted to bushwhacking up a wild river valley. Pink salmon were running in the streams, and large banana slugs oozed through the undergrowth. Out on the bay, there was both shining sun and lingering mist. Diminutive Bonaparte’s gulls dotted the dark waters, many riding on floating logs. Kingfishers chattered as they flew along the shorelines, and lone, statuesque, bald eagles peered down on us from high perches in spruce and cedar trees.
Departing Aaltanash Inlet, we turned southward again, making our way along a well-traveled stretch of the Inside Passage. There were numerous fishing boats chugging along in Graham Reach, and then on into Tolmie Channel, both primary waterways for boats transiting north and south along the coast.
We continued our passage through the Great Bear Rainforest, an area encompassing 8 million acres of coastal temperate rainforest in Northern British Columbia. We scanned the shorelines looking for wildlife, searching for the unusual Kermode, or “Spirit bear,” a pale phase of black bear, sporting recessive genes that determine its unusual white to creamy coloration. We searched but found no bears today. The abundant sunshine was ample treat, and heading downwind we enjoyed balmy conditions worthy of shorts and t-shirts. We did find an occasional humpback whale lingering here to feed. One whale breached near shore, and then proceeded to practice bubblenet feeding as we watched with delight.
During the afternoon, David Stephens gave us a fascinating presentation on “Native Northwest Coast Art and Technology.” The ship eased out into Milbank Sound, an open stretch of water unprotected from the Pacific Swells. Fortunately, the Pacific was living up to its name, and the seas remained largely calm and benevolent as we turned back into protected waters making our way south past the town of Bella Bella, B.C. The sun dipped low over passing islands as our blissful weather continued on into the evening.
