Art and Nature around Johnstone Strait
We spent the morning in Alert Bay. This town, on tiny Cormorant Island near the north end of Vancouver Island, is mighty. It has long been the ceremonial center of the Kwakwakawakw Nation. These people are justifiably famous for their extravagant potlatches, where theatrical masks appear by firelight, where magic seems manifest, where lavish gifts are distributed to guests. Despite years of suppression, the Kwakwakawakw have resisted the forces of acculturation, and the renaissance of their ceremonial life is impressive. All of us who travel on National Geographic Sea Lion are part of a long history of interaction with the people of Alert Bay. It is valuable to be a part of both traditions!
Most of us walked through town after breakfast. The sky was blue, and the air was refreshing. We passed fishing boats and totem poles. We were greeted by friendly passers-by. We climbed to a community center, where Lillian Hunt, curator of the U’mista Cultural Centre, told us about their valuable collection of masks and ceremonial regalia, returned after years of exile in the Canadian capital city.
Next we walked to the Alert Bay Bighouse. This giant structure is in the old Indian style, and was built for potlatches. We stopped before the housefront, painted with an expansive design representing a sea monster. Upon entering, we were amazed at the huge houseposts, carved in the form of bears, thunderbirds and mythological creatures. In came the dancers. These were the Tsasatla group, mostly children who are learning the ways of their ancestors. Button blankets swirled, the fire smoked, the log drum boomed as we saw traditional dances of many kinds. First we saw examples of the Tseyka, or Winter Ceremonial, including the Hamatsa, the Salmon Dance and the Madam or Flier Dance. Then, the Tlasula Ceremonial began with headdress dances, followed by whale and bookwus masked dancers. We were all asked to be a part of the Amlala, or Fun Dance, before sharing sockeye salmon and frybread.
On the way back to the ship, many of us stopped at the U’mista Cultural Center gift shop to admire masks, books and many other examples of native culture. The day was sunny, so most strolled through town, stopping briefly to photograph totem poles before boarding the ship. And here an outdoor barbecue awaited us- perfect for such a beautiful day!
Humans are not the only creatures that share culture. Killer whales, highly intelligent and sophisticated animals, have many different ways of life around the globe. In the near-shore waters of the Pacific Northwest, two kinds can be found: mammal-eaters and salmon-eaters. The salmon-eaters of Vancouver Island are among the best-known whales in the world. We found a group of these killer whales just south of Alert Bay. We had beautiful views of the whales accentuated by spectacular scenery and the even more spectacular weather!
Not long after, we found more marine mammals. These were Pacific white-sided dolphins. They often travel in huge schools – we found perhaps three hundred! These creatures are beautiful, with boldly streaked and variegated patterns. They are also boisterous and active, thrilling to watch. They slapped the water with their tails, leapt high in the air, and joined us to bow ride. The captain circled the group over and over, giving us nearly an hour of pure joy.
The waters of northern Vancouver Island are fabulously productive, and have long been the foundation of many fascinating ways of life. The natural and cultural history here makes it a rich distillation of the Northwest Coast.
