Kaikoura

Kaikoura is one of the best places in the world for experiencing marine megafauna within a short distance from the coast. Plunging to depths of nearly a mile, the Kaikoura trench is situated very close to the shore. Within about 800 meters of land, the trench is already around 800 meters deep! Also, a warmer northern current mixes with a cooler, nutrient rich southern current, thus creating a wonderful brew for plankton to bloom. Today, we maximized our explorations, searching for marine mammals and seabirds for most of the day.

In the morning, the main focus was marine mammals. Some of us set off to search for the largest of the toothed whales, the Sperm Whale. Using a directional hydrophone, we encountered one of these magnificent animals, it being drawn here to feed on the squid that also love the steep drop-offs of oceanic canyons. We snuck up on the whale as it was recharging its oxygen, and then it lifted its flukes high, descended deep in search of another meal.

Others of us went for dolphins. While three species were seen, the main focus was on the Dusky Dolphin. Acrobatic, energetic, and abundant, this is a spectacular dolphin to enjoy. But most important, these dolphins are curious enough that they are perfect to snorkel with. Many of us donned thick wetsuits to deal with the chilly water, but we didn’t even feel it due to the joy of enjoying these dolphins in their world. We were encouraged to make noise and spin in circles, and the more we did, the more they seemed to be curious of us. Spinning and spinning, the dolphins passed at arm’s length, creating many very satisfied wanna-be-dolphins.

In the afternoon, we set off for a seabird encounter. Normally, pelagic birding trips involve heading offshore for miles and miles and hour after hour for sightings of a few birds. Here, after fifteen minutes, we stopped among the birds. Within a few minutes, eight Wandering Albatross were feeding on the chum, most nearly within touching distance. It was absolutely incredible to be so close to a bird with a wingspan of more than ten feet. And the noises! The birds battled for space and food, and they certainly were vocal about it. While the albatross clacked their bills and tussled a bit, the giant petrels really got into some battles. The gorgeous little Cape Petrels snuck in for a bite, and quite a few other species all came for close observation. A very different experience than watching a distant petrel fly by for sure.

The Kaikoura peninsula, our home for the day, showed us an amazing taste of the abundance of spectacular marine wildlife. We left with fond memories, full memory cards, and an incredible set of wildlife experiences.