Sarande, Butrint & Porto Palmermo, Albania
Today we docked in the southern Port of Sarande (named for the 40 saints in a nearby monastery) and boarded buses for our first experience of Albania. The landscape shifted from port city to countryside as Corfu loomed to our right across the Ionian Sea and the protected wetlands to our left. The road to Butrint was barely wide enough for a single vehicle, yet traffic persisted in both directions, buses literally squeaking past each other as if in a carefully choreographed dance, almost as agile as the sheep and goats alongside. The countryside alternated between established villages and partially completed hotels and beach resorts (concrete construction being seen as a more secure investment for cash than banks following the disastrous pyramid schemes of 1997). While this is a tourist destination mainly for Albanians, the increasing number of day trippers from Corfu may change this.
Our guides Loret and Kela led us through Butrint, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992, and helped us interpret the multiple layers of history. The remains of past civilizations compete with the lush vegetation and encroaching salt marshes since sufficient resources to fully excavate the site have not yet materialized. Located at the crossroads between Rome and Byzantium Butrint is mentioned in Virgil's Aeneid and legend says it was founded by exiles from Troy. What is certain is that artifacts dating from at least as far back as the 4th century BC have been found here. In Roman times the city was linked with the plains by a bridge, aqueduct, and a ferry that still operates today. Its original purpose was as a place of healing and relaxation with thermal baths, theater, and gymnasium. The Baptistry and Basilica (5th -6th centuries AD) attest to the Christian presence in the colony. The Normans and the Byzantines battled for control of the site in the 11th century. The Venetians then took over and built a triangular fort facing the sea, and then in the 14th century erected a fortress on top of the former acropolis which now serves as a museum with a small but impressive collection of artifacts.
We then returned to Sarande to visit the restored Ottoman Castle of Lekurs which now houses a restaurant with fabulous panoramic views of the countryside and neighboring Corfu. We were greeted with traditional Albanian hospitality: local beer and wine accompanied by white cheese, briney olives and the local white corn bread.
Some chose to walk rather than ride back to the ship. We stopped to admire the recently discovered ruins of the 6th century synagogue destroyed by an earthquake and sampled local honey, olive oil and what looked to be wild strawberries at a farmers market. The wind was favorable and following lunch on board we set sail for Porto Palermo, a secluded bay, and some late afternoon swimming.
Just before sunset we strolled up to one of Ali Pasha's many castles: its dark corridors were lit by candles and haunting flute music beckoned from above. As we emerged out onto the roof, we found an impromptu cocktail party. The local caretaker-historian regaled us with tales of life in Ali Pasha's household, and the flutist performed traditional tunes that won him prizes in international competitions. As the sun slowly set, we toasted another day of adventure and discovery.
Today we docked in the southern Port of Sarande (named for the 40 saints in a nearby monastery) and boarded buses for our first experience of Albania. The landscape shifted from port city to countryside as Corfu loomed to our right across the Ionian Sea and the protected wetlands to our left. The road to Butrint was barely wide enough for a single vehicle, yet traffic persisted in both directions, buses literally squeaking past each other as if in a carefully choreographed dance, almost as agile as the sheep and goats alongside. The countryside alternated between established villages and partially completed hotels and beach resorts (concrete construction being seen as a more secure investment for cash than banks following the disastrous pyramid schemes of 1997). While this is a tourist destination mainly for Albanians, the increasing number of day trippers from Corfu may change this.
Our guides Loret and Kela led us through Butrint, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992, and helped us interpret the multiple layers of history. The remains of past civilizations compete with the lush vegetation and encroaching salt marshes since sufficient resources to fully excavate the site have not yet materialized. Located at the crossroads between Rome and Byzantium Butrint is mentioned in Virgil's Aeneid and legend says it was founded by exiles from Troy. What is certain is that artifacts dating from at least as far back as the 4th century BC have been found here. In Roman times the city was linked with the plains by a bridge, aqueduct, and a ferry that still operates today. Its original purpose was as a place of healing and relaxation with thermal baths, theater, and gymnasium. The Baptistry and Basilica (5th -6th centuries AD) attest to the Christian presence in the colony. The Normans and the Byzantines battled for control of the site in the 11th century. The Venetians then took over and built a triangular fort facing the sea, and then in the 14th century erected a fortress on top of the former acropolis which now serves as a museum with a small but impressive collection of artifacts.
We then returned to Sarande to visit the restored Ottoman Castle of Lekurs which now houses a restaurant with fabulous panoramic views of the countryside and neighboring Corfu. We were greeted with traditional Albanian hospitality: local beer and wine accompanied by white cheese, briney olives and the local white corn bread.
Some chose to walk rather than ride back to the ship. We stopped to admire the recently discovered ruins of the 6th century synagogue destroyed by an earthquake and sampled local honey, olive oil and what looked to be wild strawberries at a farmers market. The wind was favorable and following lunch on board we set sail for Porto Palermo, a secluded bay, and some late afternoon swimming.
Just before sunset we strolled up to one of Ali Pasha's many castles: its dark corridors were lit by candles and haunting flute music beckoned from above. As we emerged out onto the roof, we found an impromptu cocktail party. The local caretaker-historian regaled us with tales of life in Ali Pasha's household, and the flutist performed traditional tunes that won him prizes in international competitions. As the sun slowly set, we toasted another day of adventure and discovery.
