Durres, Tirane and Kruje, Albania

The past two days have been a whirlwind of newness for most of us: new language, new country, new friends. Arriving in Albania from the south, we explored its ancient, natural side yesterday. Today, we felt more of the bustle and modernity of this enigmatic country. After docking at the industrial port of Durres this morning, we boarded coaches, and headed for the modern capitol of Tirane. En route to this modern European capitol, we watched farmers harvesting hay by hand, with large scythes swinging rhythmically. We saw black-clad women in headscarves tilling their acreage, fields of wild red poppies and green hillsides fading into the distance. As our guide Kela said, “In Albania, the centuries live side by side.”

Arriving in Tirane in the mid-morning, we visited the excellent National Museum, guided through nearly thirty centuries of human history by Adrian and Kela. As perhaps the only direct descendants of the ancient Illyrians, Albanians have an intense national pride with very deep roots. After our museum visit, most of us chose to walk to lunch, along Tirane’s main boulevard. Here, we saw the late 18th century Et’hem Bey Mosque alongside Communist era buildings, and a giant statue of Skanderbeg, Albania’s national hero. Lunch at Restaurant Juvenilja was delicious, complete with a wonderful performance by a local folk dancing troupe “The Eagles”.

After lunch, most of us chose to continue our exploration of Albania, with a drive to the old capitol of Kruje. Here, we visited an excellent Ethnographic Museum, which had been the home of an extended family in the mid-18th century. A brief tour through the Skanderbeg Museum, enjoying the view from the top of the castle, and bartering for antiques in the winding bazaar rounded out our day.

We returned to Panorama shortly before dinner, tired but fascinated by the sights, sounds and tastes of Albania.