Santorini

Santorini is the modern name – it was known as Thera in antiquity; either way it is an amazing island and a study in contrasts. Shortly after sunrise this morning, we motored into the caldera created by a volcanic explosion of “biblical proportions” approximately 3,600 years ago. This ocean-filled crater is approximately 12 km long and 7 km wide, and is surrounded by steep cliffs nearly 300 meters high on three sides. The sea has carved two channels over the past three millennia, and now the rim of the caldera is divided into two islands, Thera (Santorini) and Therasia. In the middle of the caldera, a black lava island is growing slowly.

Immediately after breakfast this morning, we boarded our tender and motored to the port of Athinios. It was a quiet morning at Santorini, with no cruise ships in sight yet, so we were able to ooh and aah over the layered volcanic cliffs above us. In Athinios, we boarded our coaches and began our exploration of the island. We headed north to the lovely town of Oia, arriving while the pedestrian alleys were still quiet, as the shops were just opening. We photographed to our heart’s content, then sat with a cappuccino for a short while before beginning our shopping in earnest. Santorini is known for its white wine, made from the local assyrtiko grapes, as well as its sweet Vinsanto. Two hours flew by as we photographed the blue-domed Orthodox churches, and browsed the art galleries and silk and jewelry shops. By the time we gathered again at the coaches, the crowds had arrived, and we were happy to be on our way to lunch.

Our skillful drivers managed the island’s winding roads, past vineyards where the grapevines are trained to be low-growing “baskets”, to minimize their water loss to the persistent winds that blow across the island. Arriving at the lovely family-run restaurant Aeolus, we were stunned by both the view and the food. Traditional Greek mezedes arrived as we were seated, with dry Santorini white wine already on the table. Fava bean puree, Greek salad, fried ham and cheese phyllo rolls and baked feta with dill and tomatoes were in front of us before we knew it. The main course was still to come, followed by a delicious dessert of strawberry sorbetto with strawberry sauce.

After lunch and a few incredible photos, we returned to the island’s main town of Thirá, and a visit to the incredible Archaeological Museum, with its exhibits of ceramics, bronze pieces and frescoes from the ancient Minoan city of Akrotiri. This well-preserved city was buried under ash from the great eruption of the volcanic island of Thíra. This same eruption is thought to have generated a tsunami that devastated Minoan Crete, causing abandonment of the great palace of Knossos.

After the museum, many of us chose to return to Panorama, via cable car and tender boat, for siesta, while a few hardy souls opted to explore a little more. Some of us chose to hike up to the incredible Nomikos Foundation, where we marveled at the exhibit of wall-paintings from the buried city of Akrotiri. Others opted to take a few more photos and to shop a little, or to brave the donkey ride down the cliff from Thirá to the boat ramps and our tender home. In either case, we all reconvened for a lovely evening recap on Greek food, accompanied by traditional Greek appetizers of grilled octopus and ouzo. Despite the evening breeze, many opted to wander into the quaint port town of Ios after dinner.