Kotorfjord, Montenegro

Steep sloping mountainsides, a strong chilly wind, crisp clear air and an amazing fjord entrance . . . had we taken a wrong turn to Norway?! It was hard to believe that the spectacular scenery we were penetrating was the Mediterranean, as we woke to our first views of the mountains of Montenegro. 3,000 foot peaks surrounded us as we went deeper and deeper into Boka Kotorska, or Kotofjord, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its scenery and history.

The gem of the morning was the small islet of Gospa od Skrpjela, “The Church of Our Lady of the Rock”. The fisherman of the great maritime town of Perast built this island rock by rock after a miraculous icon was found on the reef, and by the 16th century the church had been established. It is dedicated to mariners, and generations of seamen gave gifts and prayers before and after their worldly journeys. Gospa od Skrpjela is extraordinary in its appearance, location and impact, and highlights the maritime culture of Perast.

We also visited the Maritime Museum and St. Nikolas Churchin Perast, before driving back to the walled city of Kotor. This has been an independent city-state throughout most of history, protected by Boka Kotorska and the village of Perast. Today its 9th century city walls still climb the hillsides to the fortress above, and the city itself is a wealth of Venetian architecture and streetside cafes.

In the afternoon some of us drove up the 25 serpentine switchbacks almost 3000 feet to the small village of Njegusi, known for its smoked ham and its clean air. The views were amazing, and the driving exciting, as we made our way around and about oncoming traffic. Our Montenegran guide Rade kept us comfortable and entertained as we negotiated busses and tourists from a variety of nations, and he even made up a short song about the afternoon at our Njegusi Restaurant. We finished the day back at the Kotor dock, preparing for the next two days in Albania.