Durres, Kruje and Tirane, Albania
The Panorama made her way into the port city of Durres, Albania early this morning. Lines were secured just after 7:00 a.m., while many of us made our way outside to get a quick view of our second stop in the country of Albania. Durres is Albania’s largest port city and as such is filled with cranes, cargo containers and many large trucks ready to take on the shipping goods around Albania.
After breakfast our group boarded two busses and began a day of exploring two nearby and important cities. Our first stop would be the old capitol city of Kruje located in the mountains approximately one hour’s drive from Durres. Kruje is situated in a spectacular setting beneath the country’s central limestone escarpment, and is home to two small but very interesting museums.
As our bus made its way up the winding mountain road leading to Kruje, standing on a prominent hill was the Skanderbeg Museum, dedicated to Albania’s national hero, George Kastrioti (known as Skanderbeg). This museum was built in the early 1980s, long before Albania was open to foreigners and with this one small bit of knowledge: that we, as tourists, would appreciate visiting a museum built for Albanians dedicated to their foremost national hero. Skanderbeg made use of Kruje as his main stronghold starting in 1444 and for the next 25 years he defended the country’s freedom and independence, while stopping the march of the Ottomans who were threatening invasion into all of Europe.
Our second visit in Kruje was to the Ethnographic Museum, which depicts the lifestyle of a wealthy family during the 1800s in Albania. The lower level of the house held a traditional olive press with parts more than 200 years old. There were several other rooms all providing the tools needed to run a large home in the 1800’s. Upstairs were the living quarters for the family. There was an open sitting room with a lovely copper charcoal brazier and many gorgeous Albanian carpets draped on sedans, chairs and the floor. The ladies’ room, the men’s room, a kitchen and a bathing room all completed what would have been a lovely home over 300 years ago.
After visiting both museums, we had an opportunity to explore a very unique section of the old capitol of Kruje. Nestled in the narrow streets of this old mountain city is a medieval bazaar. Encompassing less than four small blocks the new, old and sometimes kitschy world of tourist shopping opened up for all the curious members of our group! Antique olive oil lamps made of solid brass, old wooden carved wine casks, traditional Albanian costumes, gorgeous old jewelry displayed next to newly made filigree jewelry. Each small store or stall had something interesting to share and show, and for those of us interested in something truly ethnic this was a visual feast.
All too soon it was time to return to our busses and head out of the mountains, returning across a valley floor that, by road, led to the new capitol of Albania, Tirane. An hour of driving brought us into the fairly congested capitol city. In recent years the population of Tirane has grown far beyond the infrastructure of roads, housing and public transportation, and today our busses inched their way through heavy traffic, into the downtown heart of Tirane which centers around Skanderbeg Square, the nearby former Communist Party Headquarters and the later 18th century Et’hem Bey Mosque.
Our goal was a small side street where a landmark local restaurant would be hosting our group for lunch. A buffet of traditional Albanian specialties had been prepared with local wines and beer to accompany our noonday meal. After everyone in our group had a chance to visit the buffet table, a well-known Albanian group of musicians and dancers called the Eagles put on a tremendous performance. They had recently returned from Turkey and a worldwide competition for folk music performers and had taken first place! The music and dance transported us all into another time, another Albania…but one that is still very much a part of the country we have spent the last two days visiting.
While we were inside enjoying our lunch, listening, watching and participating in some dancing, the weather outside had been stormy. Thunder, lightning and a huge downpour had been pummeling the restaurant. Departure came during a break in the storm, and we boarded our busses, making our way back to the port city of Durres and the waiting Panorama. Our late afternoon was spent under sail in moderate winds. We were heading north towards the country of Montenegro. A glorious sunset touched the skies, and as the sun set in the waters of the Adriatic Sea a full moon rose in the eastern skies.
