Hvar, Croatia
We awoke anchored off the Paklani Islands, opposite the harbor of Hvar Town (the island gets its name from the Greek word for light). After breakfast we shuttled in the Panorama's Zodiacs to a small pier outside the Franciscan monastery where we were met by our guides, Barbara and Jo. As we stood in the courtyard around the large cistern, Jo explained how the need for fresh water brought the Venetians to Hvar. Potable water was a precious commodity that had to be collected from rainfall since Hvar itself has no springs. It wasn't until the 1970s that water was piped in from the mainland.
The highlight of the monastery is its refectory where there is the mural-sized oil painting of the Last Supper on three sections of canvas. The painter is unknown but local legend has it that he was a sailor or traveler who had fallen ill and been taken in by the monks to be nursed back to health. Some speculate that the beggar in the lower right hand corner represents the painter himself. The monastery also has a small display of amphora and other archaeological finds from the nearby waters. In another room is a collection of art work (icons, paintings, statues and wood carvings) from medieval to the present day. The garden overlooking the water is protected by a huge cypress that has been split into several branches providing shade from sun.
We then leisurely strolled along the Riva to the Arsenal where ships were built and repaired. On the second floor is one of Europe's oldest theaters. The unmistakable stamp of Venetian architecture can be observed in the buildings lining the main street that separated the residences of the nobles and commoners. The Venetian loggia is a magnificent building with winged lions holding open books on the walls, which signifies friendly relations with Venice. When relations between Hvar and Venice were strained, the lions were carved holding closed books.
We then headed up the stairs into the “Grod” (noble section) to admire the hanging plants and laundry. The Benedictine convent where they make lace from agave fiber has a small museum, but it is closed on Sundays. We ended our tour back out on the main street in front of St. Stefan Cathedral, which faces the harbor.
There were several options for free time: hiking up to the “Spanjola” fortress for panoramic views of Hvar Town and the Pakleni Islands, shopping, eating gelato or simply sitting in a cafe to people-watch. Sharon and Grace paid a visit to their friend Ivo who was giving samples of his cheeses (goat, sheep and cow) as well as cured meats including wild boar salami. Some guests decided to have lunch in town before returning to the ship. After lunch the captain found a secluded bay for a swim stop which was followed by Grace's presentation on the Fourth Crusade.
The captain graciously hosted a farewell cocktail party and dinner, so we ended the evening festively with food, drink, music and dancing. A delightful ending to an expedition full of adventures and new experiences.
