Korcula, Croatia
The Panorama had remained at anchor throughout the evening, just off of the Peljesac Peninsula, a 35-mile long piece of land jutting off the Croatian mainland. Winds were a little brisk this morning but the forecast was for a significant drop of wind in the late morning. Once breakfast was finished and the usual morning announcements had been made, the Panorama lifted her anchor heading for a small group of islands located near Korcula and even more importantly, in an extremely protected area from the prevailing wind pattern.
Our plans for the morning were for kayaking and swimming in a lovely protected anchorage just off a gorgeous and classic tiny Croatian island. The coastline of Croatia is dotted with hundreds of islands, all offering a testimony to the beauty of this part of the Dalmatian Coast. Once the anchor was set and the swim ladder was dropped, the Adriatic Sea called to all intrepid swimmers ready to cool off from the day’s building heat and swim in the clean, clear and buoyant waters at this lovely location. Kayaks were lowered and one of the most delightful paddles was offered to all interested. It was a short distance to the closest island, where a small cottage sat surrounded by Spanish broom, a small vineyard and just a few trees creating an idyllic and dreamlike setting. Near the shore a mother gull and her newly hatched offspring wandered near the sea, while swallows soared over aqua blue waters.
Just before lunch all gear was stowed, and the Panorama made ready to lift her anchor and travel the short passage to a public dock just outside the walls of the medieval town of Korcula, on the island of the same name. The Greeks who settled this island many generations ago called it Korkyra Melaina (Black Korcula or Black Corfu), due to the dense, lush foliage of largely cypress and pine trees. As we approached the island, the surrounding forests could be seen and it was obvious that this island and the climate of Croatia provided good land for growing several very important crops.
Just after lunch we went ashore near one of the main gates to Korcula and began a walking tour of this lovely and interesting medieval town, which is perched on a wide peninsula surrounded by thick and strong 13th century walls, reinforced with towers, all built by the Venetians. These same builders designed Korcula with a herringbone street pattern, offset and sloped to protect from wind, sun and rain. On this warm afternoon it was a comfort to wander the narrow streets looking for wonderfully shadowed curving streets for shelter from sun and the chance to capture yet another image of the medieval influence of the Venetians, who settled and influenced so much of the Dalmatian Coast. After a guided tour through old town we had a chance to wander on our own, enjoying some time to explore another walled medieval town built on the sea.
At 4:30 p.m. our group gathered to take a short bus ride out to the small village of Lumbarda and the Milina-Bire family winery. This Croatian family has been producing wines for centuries and started their own public winery 50 years ago. Sitting in their tasting room we had a chance to sample their organic wines along with some of the Croatian specialties well-known in the area. Salted fish, smoked pork, goat cheese, and Mortar (picked sea-fennel) along with olives and candied orange and lemon rinds were all set out on long wooden tables for our enjoyment and a fine accompaniment to local Croatian wines.
All too soon it was time to return to Korcula and a special performance of the traditional Moreska sword dance. Moreska is unique to the town of Korcula, combining drama and dynamic combat dance with swords, which has existed in Korcula since the 17th century. In the summer theatre in lovely evening light we watched a performance that first became popular during the Renaissance period of history in Europe and has changed very little since that time!
Our day had started in the beauty of the Croatian islands and sea, followed with exploration of a lovely small medieval town, closing with a reminder of the continuum of culture with the performance of the Moreska sword dance. Returning to the Panorama for dinner and the setting sun over the entrance to Korcula, closed yet another full day in this unique country called Croatia.
