Folegandros, Poliegos and Milos Islands
After three very full days of exploring the larger, well-known Cycladic islands, we changed our pace today and immersed ourselves in “island time.” Awaking in the tiny port of Karavostasi on Folegandros Island, a couple of morning swimmers enjoyed the lovely clear water of the pebbly public beach before breakfast.
Just after breakfast, most of us boarded one of the island’s few buses for the short trip up to the chora. Upon arrival, we were all drawn immediately to the view from the town’s “balcony on the Aegean.” Exploring the tiny “kastro,” we felt as though we were on the set of a play and that the doors of the white-washed cubic houses might open at any moment, as the actors entered the scene. The cafes in the main square were filled with locals discussing the morning’s news, as well as foreign travelers enjoying a relaxed breakfast.
Around every corner we found another photo opportunity, and we all tried to capture the essence of this charming Greek community. All too soon, it was time to return to our bus, and then down the hill to the Panorama. We stopped by a fishing boat that had recently returned from a night of fishing, where the fishermen were examining their nets for any signs of wear. One of the more interesting items in the catch was a giant tun snail, which our guide Sophia displayed for us.
Back aboard Panorama, we departed Folegandros, bound for the rugged island of Poliegos. The sea surface was unbelievably calm, reflecting the red, ochre and white cliffs of Poliegos from many miles away. We stood mesmerized on deck, drawn into the deep Aegean blue that surrounded us, or staring far out to sea. Captain Dimitrios brought the ship close to the rugged western shore of the island, so we snapped dozens of photos of turquoise sea beneath rusty cliffs. As we enjoyed another tasty Greek lunch, Panorama anchored in one of our favorite bays, and we prepared for an afternoon at the beach.
The water surrounding us seemed like liquid turquoise, and, on such a warm afternoon, the sandy beach on shore was irresistible. We swam, kayaked, snorkeled and simply floated in this warm, salty water. A lively game of catch engaged nearly a dozen of us for the better part of the afternoon, with two Frisbees and two Nerf balls flying back and forth in quick time. We each stayed as long as we wanted, and got our fill of Greek sunshine, sand and sea.
In the early evening, Sophia and Eleni taught us the Greek alphabet, and challenged us all to write our names using our newly learned language skills. It was a fun exercise which had us all laughing by the end. Just at dinner time, we arrived in the lively port of Adamas, Milos, where we berthed for the night.
After dinner, we participated in the time-honored Mediterranean custom of the “volta,” or promenade, strolling the waterfront along with Greek families and foreign travelers alike. Some of us stopped for an ice cream, others found a taverna, and a few visited the local shops for some typical “Melian” souvenirs. At the end of the day, we reflected on the three very different islands we’d visited, savoring the experience of getting “off the beaten path.”
