Syros
Our day started in an adventurous way. The Aegean wind blowing a gale changed our plans. Being impossible to enter the port of Tinos, we turned and sailed straight to Syros, which was our original evening destination. And what a pleasant surprise it was . . .
Syros is a small Cycladic island, the capitol of the Cyclades. But instead of a whitewashed town, we saw the almighty neoclassical city of Ermoupolis, which thrived during the 19th century. Syros is the modern equivalent of Delos—a tiny island without resources which found itself in the right place at the right moment and prosperity. By the mid-19th century the port became the coal-bunkering station for packet ships of the eastern Mediterranean and the chief port of Greece. When oil-burning became common, the port changed roles and became a mercantile junction in the Aegean. Ermoupolis developed into one of the most highly industrialized towns in Greece with cotton mills and tanneries.
An orientation walk through the town was enlightening. Our guides first took us to the Church of the Dormitian of the Virgin, built in 1827 to house an icon of El Greco brought by refugees of the island of Psara. We then strolled through the marble paved streets of the town heading to the main square, a large piazza dominated b the Town Hall, an impressive and elegant building. Round the square are grouped arcaded cafes, clubs and the public library. Behind this is the Apollo Theatre – one of the first in Greece – and the magnificent mansions of the neighborhood of the ship-owners. We ended up at the bustling and animated quay lined with cafes, tavernas, and shops selling “loukami,” and checked out the fruit and grocery market looking for local products.
After lunch we had a short bus ride to see the island and its countryside. The island outside the town of Ermoupolis has a typical Cycladic landscape: farming and beautiful beaches. We drove through Vari, Finikas, and Poseidonia better known by its popular name Dellagrazia. This is the favorite summer resort of the islanders with attractive villas and small tavernas. We ended up at Galissas, where we enjoyed some relaxing time at the beach.
Later in the evening, Sharon gave us a wonderful presentation on olive oil, followed by an olive oil tasting. Tonight we had a Greek feast enjoying different dishes and Greek dancing, which turned into a big party. It was a lovely day.
