Hvar, Croatia
It was a lazy morning at sea that ended with our first swim in the Adriatic. The water is warm and extremely buoyant because of its high salinity. After a delicious lunch, we took zodiacs to shore for our walking tour of the medieval town of Hvar. Originally settled by Greeks who brought olive trees and grape vines to the island, Hvar has become one of the destinations for the international jet set in July and August. In September, however, the atmosphere has settled back down into the relaxed rhythm of the Adriatic life: visiting the farmers market in the morning, enjoying a cup of coffee at a harborside cafe and the always-popular activity of people-watching.
Our guides Karmen and Jana introduced us to the Franciscan Monastery which also functions as a museum and as a concert venue during the summer. A grand piano sits in the courtyard next to the giant cistern that collects rain water and distributes it through a system of underground pipes. Hvar was an important port for Venetian trade as it not only offered a safe harbor but also an opportunity to obtain fresh drinking water. From its garden under the shade of a huge cypress tree photographers captured the Panorama anchored next to one of the Pakleni Islands that shelter the harbor. In the refectory is an extraordinary mural-sized painting of The Last Supper and the small museum has an impressive collection of art, both contemporary and traditional. One wooden sculpture depicting the current of the sea by a local artist Šoša attracted our attention.
We then strolled along the Riva as we learned more about island life on Hvar. There is a strong sense of community here, but life can be difficult on an island that has no fresh water source other than rainwater. The rocky terrain needs intensive cultivation in order to grow anything other than olives, grapes and lavender. Fishing and tourism round out the island's economy, but both are dependent upon the weather.
The layout of Hvar Town reproduces the social structure imposed by Venice: the noble lived behind the city walls in the Grod, which is separated from the plebian Burak by a wide limestone promenade leading to St. Stefan's Cathedral. The plebians fought long and hard against this system and in 1612 an agreement was reached and commemorated with the construction of Europe's oldest communal theatre over the arsenal. The Lion of St. Mark, the symbol of Venice, can be found everywhere, holding an open book representing a time of peace and a closed book representing a time of war. St. Stefan's Cathedral is an important center of this island's identity and its multi-colored marble altars attest to the importance of Hvar as a major Venetian port.
The rest of the afternoon was free to explore the picturesque streets and shops, sit in a cafe near the harbor or hike up to the citadel overlooking the town for breathtaking views of the town, the harbor and the Panorama.
Back on Panorama the lounge was filled with lively conversation as guests shared their experiences of the day. Before dinner we had our first recap: Grace Fielder gave an overview of the breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s and in her first recap on photography, Sharon Grainger demonstrated how using the macro setting can capture details that the naked eye would miss.
