Korcula, Croatia
After anchoring at 11:00pm on the south side of the Pelijesac Peninsula, looking south at the island of Korcula, we were planning on checking the weather conditions in hopes of spending the morning kayaking and swimming. Our morning anchorage was within the protection of a group of small islands and at sunrise the winds had changed to a fairly strong land breeze, creating a bit of a sloppy anchorage. After waiting for approximately an hour, our expedition leader decided to change plans. It was too windy for kayaking, and the waves were a little to strong for swimming, so we decided to lift the anchor and spend a couple of hours sailing in hopes for a drop in the land breeze later in the morning.
We also changed the late morning presentation to early morning; our local guide Vedrana would be presenting an overview and introduction to the city of Dubrovnik. Meanwhile, our captain took our ship out and around a lovely group of islands that run the length of the west side of the island of Korcula. As was hoped, the wind did begin to drop and the Panorama returned to our morning anchorage, where the swim platform was set up in the protection of a small island. Many of our group spent the late morning taking a nice long swim in the Adriatic Sea.
Just before lunch the Panorama began making her way to the island of Korcula. The ancient Greeks knew this island as Korkyra Melaina (black Korcula or black Curfu), because of its dense lush foliage. The most famous historical figure from the island is Marco Polo, whose alleged birth house can still be seen. Korcula was part of the Venetian Empire from the 14th to the 18th centuries, and this history has left an enormous mark on the architecture of the main town and villages throughout the island.
At 2:00pm we began the first part of a three-part afternoon on Korcula, which was a guided walking tour of this quintessential medieval town. The town was designed with a slight uphill grade and a lovely herringbone street pattern. The sloping, winding streets help circulate a breeze throughout the town on hot summer days and provide protection from wind and rain in the winter. Our ultimate goal was St. Mark’s Cathedral. The outer decorations along the roofline of this cathedral are continued proof of the famous stonemasons and the excellent stone, which has been used all over the world.
Some free time was given after the walking tour and it was our first opportunity to wander the streets and take our time in many shops offering the classic Balkan traditions of filigree jewelry and art objects. This fine silver and gold wirework has been famous in this part of the world for 1000 years.
Late afternoon we all gathered at the main entrance gate to Korcula to make our way to the central bus station to meet our bus which would take us to the east end of the island to Lombardi, a small village where the Melina-Bier family has been growing grapes for centuries and very recently started their own organic winery. We were able to sample their excellent wines, brandies, cured fish, dried fruits, olives and nuts in the comfort of their small and well-stocked tasting room.
Returning to town for the third part of our day, we had the opportunity to see a performance of traditional Moreska sword dancing. This story and dance performance has been presented on the island of Korcula for over 400 years.
After a busy afternoon exploring Korcula, returning to the Panorama for an evening barbecue dinner was a welcome treat. The plan was to remain dockside until the early morning hours, allowing for a relaxed dinner and an opportunity to enjoy a late summer stroll in Korcula Town. Walking through this medieval town, lit delightfully with traditionally-shaped lanterns, allowed for wonderful photography and added to the beauty of this out-of-the-way island visited since the times of the Venetians, always appreciated for its quiet beauty, and the warmth and hospitality of its Croatian hosts.
