Santa Cruz Island
Academy Bay, named after the California Academy of Sciences yacht “Academy,” saw this bay under considerably different circumstances than we. In 1905 there were no inhabitants yet, and the lava bluff and sandy beaches provided a sheltered anchorage for them in the southeastern corner of the island. Today, many boats were anchored inshore in the lee, most associated with the tourism industry here, but some small fishing vessels also, wooden-hulled and simple in construction. Despite the bustling activity of boats, water taxis and other tenders ferrying people to and fro, wildlife still uses the bay as they have for millions of years. Blue-footed boobies plunge dive in between boats, hunting the schools of fish that use them as shelter, and sea lions have learned to climb the stern of the less-used vessels as rafts for a quiet siesta, undisturbed by the rise and fall of the tide.
We used our Zodiacs to ride into the jetty belonging to the Galápagos National Park Service early in the morning. The visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station was first on our list of things to do today, and the famous giant tortoises were the center of attention. Large ones, small ones, dome-shaped and saddle-backed, we saw them all as well as some of the land iguanas held in captivity for breeding, all of their offspring destined for repatriation when old enough to fend for themselves against the elements and dangers of life in the wild.
Time in town allowed for shopping (window and otherwise), checking e-mails in one of the numerous cyber cafes that have sprung up over the last few years, and people-watching. The inhabitants of Puerto Ayora are mostly descendants of mainland Ecuadorians, though a few blondes can be seen, if not temporary visitors, then descendants of some of the original Europeans who arrived in the 30’s and 40’s escaping the trials of life in their homelands of the times.
Lunch in the highlands under an open-air gazebo was followed by choices, choices. Some found the Santa Cruz Island race of giant tortoises wandering open fields surrounded by lush green grass, and vermillion flycatchers and Darwin’s finches hopped from branch to twig to tortoise back and off again.
Life in its countless daily trials and tribulations continues for the wild Galápagos inhabitants as if we humans were not standing next to them watching their every move. It is disconcerting at first, and for some people it’s hard getting used to being ignored so thoroughly. For those of us who have spent most of our lives among these unique creatures and plants, it is healthy to be reminded again and again that we are not the center of attention. For a while at least, while we stand around, watching without interfering, it’s comforting to know that there are places on earth where human impact is minimal, and habitats can be restored to their pre-human state. In fact, many that come to see the islands can go home with the solid knowledge that people can actually have a positive influence. Our presence here as transient visitors, paying entrance fees, supporting conservation projects, is helping the long-term protection of these island innocents.
Academy Bay, named after the California Academy of Sciences yacht “Academy,” saw this bay under considerably different circumstances than we. In 1905 there were no inhabitants yet, and the lava bluff and sandy beaches provided a sheltered anchorage for them in the southeastern corner of the island. Today, many boats were anchored inshore in the lee, most associated with the tourism industry here, but some small fishing vessels also, wooden-hulled and simple in construction. Despite the bustling activity of boats, water taxis and other tenders ferrying people to and fro, wildlife still uses the bay as they have for millions of years. Blue-footed boobies plunge dive in between boats, hunting the schools of fish that use them as shelter, and sea lions have learned to climb the stern of the less-used vessels as rafts for a quiet siesta, undisturbed by the rise and fall of the tide.
We used our Zodiacs to ride into the jetty belonging to the Galápagos National Park Service early in the morning. The visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station was first on our list of things to do today, and the famous giant tortoises were the center of attention. Large ones, small ones, dome-shaped and saddle-backed, we saw them all as well as some of the land iguanas held in captivity for breeding, all of their offspring destined for repatriation when old enough to fend for themselves against the elements and dangers of life in the wild.
Time in town allowed for shopping (window and otherwise), checking e-mails in one of the numerous cyber cafes that have sprung up over the last few years, and people-watching. The inhabitants of Puerto Ayora are mostly descendants of mainland Ecuadorians, though a few blondes can be seen, if not temporary visitors, then descendants of some of the original Europeans who arrived in the 30’s and 40’s escaping the trials of life in their homelands of the times.
Lunch in the highlands under an open-air gazebo was followed by choices, choices. Some found the Santa Cruz Island race of giant tortoises wandering open fields surrounded by lush green grass, and vermillion flycatchers and Darwin’s finches hopped from branch to twig to tortoise back and off again.
Life in its countless daily trials and tribulations continues for the wild Galápagos inhabitants as if we humans were not standing next to them watching their every move. It is disconcerting at first, and for some people it’s hard getting used to being ignored so thoroughly. For those of us who have spent most of our lives among these unique creatures and plants, it is healthy to be reminded again and again that we are not the center of attention. For a while at least, while we stand around, watching without interfering, it’s comforting to know that there are places on earth where human impact is minimal, and habitats can be restored to their pre-human state. In fact, many that come to see the islands can go home with the solid knowledge that people can actually have a positive influence. Our presence here as transient visitors, paying entrance fees, supporting conservation projects, is helping the long-term protection of these island innocents.
