Genovesa Island

Today when we awoke, we found the ship peacefully at anchor in the ocean filled caldera of Genovesa Island. We were surprised to find a completely cloudy sky as we have had hot, clear sunny days all this week. The clouds soon burned off however, and the typical muggy weather of the rainy season descended upon us. Perfect weather for a swim…

We disembarked right after breakfast on a lovely, white sand, coral beach. I had warned the guests to wear their “wet landing” footwear, aqua socks or water sandals, because the coral pebbles are hard on all but the toughest and most calloused feet. There was so much to see, so many species of birds at all stages of courting and nest building and raising their chicks that we hardly knew what to observe and photograph first. Male frigates with their red balloon pouches inflated, quivered and cooed when the females flew above them. The red-footed boobies had nests with fat and cotton-fluffy chicks or drab grey juveniles who flapped and stretched to strengthen their flight muscles.

Many of us swam, others snorkeled below the cliffs across the bay, and a few die-hard beach bums stayed as long as possible on the beach. We enjoyed the antics of several sea lion. Two young bulls shoved and pushed trying to work out, in a playful manner, who was the strongest. A couple pups were searching for their mothers. They bleated and swam and finally contentedly nursed. But by far the most interesting behavior that we had the luck to witness, was a patient female sea lion who allowed her year old pup, her new pup and some unrelated 4 to 5 month old pup to all nurse simultaneously! I have NEVER seen three sea lion pups nursing together during my 25 years working as a Naturalist in Galápagos! None of the team of Naturalists who are working with me this week have ever seen this either! Two nursing pups is rare. But three is unheard of. Here is the picture to prove this happened. Yep, something new and wonderful happens every week in these “Islas Encantadas.”