Floreana Island

Even though we have entered the rainy season in the Galapagos, we had a very clear day today in Floreana Island. Early in the morning we watched the sun rise over virtually cloudless skies as we visited one of the oldest post offices in Ecuador, the barrel at Post Office Bay. This particular postal tradition started off a long time ago in the Enchanted Isles. It was during the late 1700s that many whalers started scouting the Pacific for new hunting grounds, as the Atlantic whale stocks had dwindled so, especially those of the sperm whales. The Galapagos made a perfect post to replenish stocks of water and fresh meat (mainly giant tortoises), as well as a great place to fix and careen ships, and drop off mail to homes that were not to be returned to for several more years. After breakfast we visited a tiny satellite islet just off the eastern coast of Floreana which is fantastic for underwater activities: Champion Islet. We undertook glass bottom boat rides, and immersed ourselves through snorkeling amongst many tropical fish species, sharks and curious young sea lions. The water was so clear we had a visibility of at least 30 feet. We ended a thoroughly enjoyable morning with a traditional Ecuadorian lunch (or rather feast!) on board.

This afternoon we disembarked on a beach different to the coralline ones we had encountered so far: entirely made up of eroded lava and ash. We took a hugely enjoyable walk past a lagoon dotted with maybe a hundred of the Galapagos subspecies of the greater flamingo, including a great many chicks. The trail then led on to a completely different beach, made up of fine white sand, which is a favorite nesting area of the green sea turtle, and these months are the peak of this animal’s nesting season.

After the guided walk, we had the opportunity to explore the beach area for ourselves. I took along the ship’s digital camera and came across a wonderful shot of our endemic Galapagos flycatcher. I held a small twig in my hand - right in front of my face - and this fearless little bird came straight to me to rest on the twig and study my spellbound face. What an unbelievable experience! These pretty little birds are yet another example of the strange indifference that all Galapagos fauna exhibits to foreign visitors: I feel there is a lot to be learnt by this experience.