Genovesa Island
Dawn found us entering the eroded and submerged crater of Genovesa Island. The Captain took Polaris across the bay and we dropped our anchor at the base of the steep, layered cliffs. We very quickly spotted our first puffed and courting frigate birds perched among the gray branches of the leafless, palo santo trees. Their red, balloon pouches are extremely easy to see against the blacks and greys of the island’s dry vegetation. Usually at this time of the year, the trees and shrubs should be a vibrant green. But this year’s predicted ‘‘El Niño’’ never materialised. In fact, rather than receiving abundant rainfall between the months of January and April, the islands have received very little. It seems that Galapagos is experiencing a severe drought.
A lack of rain and grey vegetation has not affected the fervour of the courting male frigates, however (see today’s photo). The instant we set foot on the lovely white coralline beach we were aware that the frigates were in full courtship. They cooed and trembled with outstretched wings, heads thrown back and their inflated gular sacs bounced in the breeze as each female frigate soared above them. They decorated the shrubs like so many red Christmas ornaments and courted the females in pairs, trios, and small groups. What it takes exactly, to catch the eye of a female is something we surely cannot comprehend. But luckily it works for the frigates; several couples had finished with the frantic displays and were quietly nesting.
The drought itself has in no way affected the marine environment – though the unusually cool water today at Tower may actually be tied into the ‘‘El Niño that never was’’. Scientists don’t fully understand the Niño phenomena. Our guests were delighted in any case, with the snorkel outing this morning. The visibility was fantastic and moray eels, golden guinea fowl puffer fish and sea turtles were among the treasures spotted.
The afternoon walk produced many more amorous frigates, young Nazca boobies by the dozens, storm petrels wheeling above the lava tubes where they nest and even an endemic subspecies of short-eared owl! To complete a thoroughly successful day, we dined on deck under a clear and starry sky on barbecued ribs and fish kebabs. For a super sweet finale, we topped it off with lemon pie and fresh fruit salad.
Dawn found us entering the eroded and submerged crater of Genovesa Island. The Captain took Polaris across the bay and we dropped our anchor at the base of the steep, layered cliffs. We very quickly spotted our first puffed and courting frigate birds perched among the gray branches of the leafless, palo santo trees. Their red, balloon pouches are extremely easy to see against the blacks and greys of the island’s dry vegetation. Usually at this time of the year, the trees and shrubs should be a vibrant green. But this year’s predicted ‘‘El Niño’’ never materialised. In fact, rather than receiving abundant rainfall between the months of January and April, the islands have received very little. It seems that Galapagos is experiencing a severe drought.
A lack of rain and grey vegetation has not affected the fervour of the courting male frigates, however (see today’s photo). The instant we set foot on the lovely white coralline beach we were aware that the frigates were in full courtship. They cooed and trembled with outstretched wings, heads thrown back and their inflated gular sacs bounced in the breeze as each female frigate soared above them. They decorated the shrubs like so many red Christmas ornaments and courted the females in pairs, trios, and small groups. What it takes exactly, to catch the eye of a female is something we surely cannot comprehend. But luckily it works for the frigates; several couples had finished with the frantic displays and were quietly nesting.
The drought itself has in no way affected the marine environment – though the unusually cool water today at Tower may actually be tied into the ‘‘El Niño that never was’’. Scientists don’t fully understand the Niño phenomena. Our guests were delighted in any case, with the snorkel outing this morning. The visibility was fantastic and moray eels, golden guinea fowl puffer fish and sea turtles were among the treasures spotted.
The afternoon walk produced many more amorous frigates, young Nazca boobies by the dozens, storm petrels wheeling above the lava tubes where they nest and even an endemic subspecies of short-eared owl! To complete a thoroughly successful day, we dined on deck under a clear and starry sky on barbecued ribs and fish kebabs. For a super sweet finale, we topped it off with lemon pie and fresh fruit salad.
