Santa Cruz Island
We awake today with much anticipation and excitement as our Expedition Team had planned for a day-long journey exploring the island of Santa Cruz in search of an once-in-a-lifetime experience to be amongst the incredible species of giant tortoises of which the name “Galapágos” originated. As we board the zodiacs heading for shore, we notice immediately that Santa Cruz is unique from the islands we have visited so far. While civilized living as we know it is something most of us left behind after sailing off on this expedition, we are reminded by the tiny homes, buildings and boats scattered on the rocky coast of Puerto Ayora that Galapágos is also a land of a small, yet evolving human population, where the current residents live simply and freely with nature and wildlife in one of the most unique environments in the world. Most work in response to the growing number of visitors to the islands, while others are involved in an impressive large scale effort to preserve and protect the rare species found here – a stark contrast to the effects of human impact in earlier days. Back then, pirates and whalers took captive thousands of the mysteriously peaceful tortoises to be used as fresh meat onboard their vessels because they can live for up to a year without food or water.
Unfortunately, this impact was so severe, it nearly destroyed the tortoise population entirely. Now, it is obvious as we visit the Charles Darwin Research Station that the human impact is characterized by impressive and compassionate efforts to save these magnificent creatures. From the immense research studied here by scientists to the daily feedings and the nurtured nesting assistance provided by the staff to the youngest and oldest generations of tortoise and iguanas, it is humbling to know that so many dedicated individuals and organizations have taken on an amazing responsibility to study, preserve and educate the world on the fragility and importance of the island’s most unique residents. We are lucky to catch a glimpse of some social interaction by Lonesome George, the last known tortoise of his species now living at the Research Station with two females introduced as his “companions” in hopes he will reproduce. We all hold in a hopeful breathe as he shows an interested, fast-moving (for a tortoise) approach towards one of the brave ladies who has taken residence in his bachelor tortoise grounds. Today though, he is only concerned that she gets out of his way while he enjoys his breakfast. As we continue on, we keep a silent wish that he finds someplace within his hard, aging shell for change of heart.
After warm greetings by the local people in the shops, cafes and restaurants of Puerto Ayora, we make our way to a restaurant bbq lunch, complete with an opportunity to cool down in the pool, a volleyball game, and time to enjoy an afternoon cerveza. After lunch, we embark on a five mile excursion to the highlands. Some choose to travel by foot, others by mountain bike, and the rest of us, a more leisurely scenic route by coach, all sharing the same eagerness for what awaits ahead. Once we arrive, it is as though we are stepping on sacred ground, as we take in the serene beauty of the highlands – picturesque with lush green rolling hills, ancient grooved and sprawling shade trees, and a far-reaching horizon to the turquoise blue sea. The only sounds come from the rustling of branches in the wind and the soft singing and chirping of the small gracefully dancing birds, seemingly guiding us along the path to the tortoises. And it is here that we step into the peaceful world of these amazing and wondrous animals. Dozens of slowly grazing and resting tortoises are scattered about as far as the eye can see, some basking in the warm sun of this bright and breezy day, while others find their solitude in the much cooler shade or in moist pools of mud and water. Some shy at our presence, not knowing how awe-inspired we are as we stand beside them. Most of them likely surpass us in years, either now or in the future. They are unaware of our fascination with their existence, respect and admiration for their way of life – slow-paced and simple, foreign concepts in our hurried modern lives. We arrive back to the Polaris with a new sense of appreciation for what the tortoises and the land the live on symbolizes to the Galapágos Islands and for the rest of the world. As we prepare for the adventures still to come, we enjoy dinner and dance with performances by a local Ecuadorian music group and festive dancers to celebrate the end of an incredible day of discovery.
We awake today with much anticipation and excitement as our Expedition Team had planned for a day-long journey exploring the island of Santa Cruz in search of an once-in-a-lifetime experience to be amongst the incredible species of giant tortoises of which the name “Galapágos” originated. As we board the zodiacs heading for shore, we notice immediately that Santa Cruz is unique from the islands we have visited so far. While civilized living as we know it is something most of us left behind after sailing off on this expedition, we are reminded by the tiny homes, buildings and boats scattered on the rocky coast of Puerto Ayora that Galapágos is also a land of a small, yet evolving human population, where the current residents live simply and freely with nature and wildlife in one of the most unique environments in the world. Most work in response to the growing number of visitors to the islands, while others are involved in an impressive large scale effort to preserve and protect the rare species found here – a stark contrast to the effects of human impact in earlier days. Back then, pirates and whalers took captive thousands of the mysteriously peaceful tortoises to be used as fresh meat onboard their vessels because they can live for up to a year without food or water.
Unfortunately, this impact was so severe, it nearly destroyed the tortoise population entirely. Now, it is obvious as we visit the Charles Darwin Research Station that the human impact is characterized by impressive and compassionate efforts to save these magnificent creatures. From the immense research studied here by scientists to the daily feedings and the nurtured nesting assistance provided by the staff to the youngest and oldest generations of tortoise and iguanas, it is humbling to know that so many dedicated individuals and organizations have taken on an amazing responsibility to study, preserve and educate the world on the fragility and importance of the island’s most unique residents. We are lucky to catch a glimpse of some social interaction by Lonesome George, the last known tortoise of his species now living at the Research Station with two females introduced as his “companions” in hopes he will reproduce. We all hold in a hopeful breathe as he shows an interested, fast-moving (for a tortoise) approach towards one of the brave ladies who has taken residence in his bachelor tortoise grounds. Today though, he is only concerned that she gets out of his way while he enjoys his breakfast. As we continue on, we keep a silent wish that he finds someplace within his hard, aging shell for change of heart.
After warm greetings by the local people in the shops, cafes and restaurants of Puerto Ayora, we make our way to a restaurant bbq lunch, complete with an opportunity to cool down in the pool, a volleyball game, and time to enjoy an afternoon cerveza. After lunch, we embark on a five mile excursion to the highlands. Some choose to travel by foot, others by mountain bike, and the rest of us, a more leisurely scenic route by coach, all sharing the same eagerness for what awaits ahead. Once we arrive, it is as though we are stepping on sacred ground, as we take in the serene beauty of the highlands – picturesque with lush green rolling hills, ancient grooved and sprawling shade trees, and a far-reaching horizon to the turquoise blue sea. The only sounds come from the rustling of branches in the wind and the soft singing and chirping of the small gracefully dancing birds, seemingly guiding us along the path to the tortoises. And it is here that we step into the peaceful world of these amazing and wondrous animals. Dozens of slowly grazing and resting tortoises are scattered about as far as the eye can see, some basking in the warm sun of this bright and breezy day, while others find their solitude in the much cooler shade or in moist pools of mud and water. Some shy at our presence, not knowing how awe-inspired we are as we stand beside them. Most of them likely surpass us in years, either now or in the future. They are unaware of our fascination with their existence, respect and admiration for their way of life – slow-paced and simple, foreign concepts in our hurried modern lives. We arrive back to the Polaris with a new sense of appreciation for what the tortoises and the land the live on symbolizes to the Galapágos Islands and for the rest of the world. As we prepare for the adventures still to come, we enjoy dinner and dance with performances by a local Ecuadorian music group and festive dancers to celebrate the end of an incredible day of discovery.
