Dürnstein & Melk: Diamonds on the Danube
Dürnstein and Melk lie in the Wachau Valley, an unspeakably beautiful and mysterious stretch of the Danube, adorned with ancient castles, vineyards and orchards descending almost to the banks of the river. It is a region lost in time, with reassuring slow rhythms and ancient traditions, a land dedicated to religion and wine where both St. Benedict and the Bacchus are at home.
Coming from Vienna, we first visted Dürnstein. Walking along the river and into town via vineyards and orchards, we heard about the region’s micro-climate which produces fabulous harvests of wine and apricots. We had excellent views of the ancient castle ruins on the hill where Richard the Lion Heart was held captive in 1192-93. Part of the enormous ransom money paid for his release was used to build the city walls around Vienna, which provided stalwart protection against the last Turkish attacks in 1529 and 1683.
Our guides led us through the small streets and alleyways of Dürnstein with lively tales and explanations. We stopped at the noble Medieval Town Hall, the nunnery of the Poor Clares (turned granary and fire house), as well as the Augustinian Monastery, which provided brilliant Baroque lighting with the morning sun coming through the orange window. The sonorous glories of the church acoustics came to life when Lucy and Ray Russell sang for us.
Amidst bicycles and other tourists, we explored the shops before the wine tasting of Grüner Veltliner, Riesling and the red Blauer Zweigelt on a vineyard terrace. Only ten percent of the wines produced in this region are red. Our Blauer Zweigelt was smooth and well-rounded in contrast with the light peppery whites, which are to be enjoyed young.
Feasting on Austrian specialties with pumpkin seed oil aboard the River Cloud, we continued to sail through the magnificent Wachau Valley while Connie, Sharon, Lucy and Ray gave commentary. As we passed the small town of Spitz, we waved to our River Cloud bicyclers who pedaled between Durnstein and Melk. They rode the last stretch quick briskly to make it back for the Melk tour.
The 30 kilometer long Wachau Valley forms part of a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site together with the imposing Benedictine Abbey of Melk, a vivid ochre yellow Baroque complex atop a steep rocky cliff. In the Abbey courtyard we discussed monasticism before entering the museum in small groups. Our well-versed guides explained the Benedictine Order with its motto ora et labora et lege (pray, work and read), as well as the history of the abbey since the Middle Ages. In the renowned library an exhibition of ancient astronomical manuscripts and instruments such as the quadrant and astrolabe was on display in honor of the International Year of Astronomy. An organ recital by the resident monk Pater Bruno gave us the time and serenity to observe more closely the stunning and glorious details of the ornate and richly decorated Abbey church.
Afterwards, we savored the lovely gardens with ancient Linden trees and pungent rose gardens. The garden pavilion and café was decorated with extravagant exotic garden frescos which could also be seen in the table top mirrors. Most of us returned to ship by foot, taking in antique and souvenir shops, or choosing a specialty black pumpkin seed oil. Sweet sleep accompanied our cruise to Passau.
