Regensburg: Of Romans & the Middle Ages
Ratisbona to the Celts and Castra Regina to the Romans, the city was called Regensburg after the Germanic tribes attained power in the 5th century AD. Located at the northernmost point of the Danube, it has always been of strategic importance and even in prehistoric times played an important role in the trade of salt, amber and flint stone. From the 6th -13th century, it was Bavaria’s capital and in the mid-9th century the seat of the Eastern Frankish Empire under Ludwig the German, grandson of Charlemagne. Since1245 a Free Imperial City, Regensburg held the right to rule itself, answerable only to the Emperor. From 1663-1806 the city added to its prestige by becoming the perpetual seat of the Imperial Diet or Parliament) of the Holy Roman Empire.
Throughout the Middle Ages Regensburg was an important center of commerce, culture and Christianity. Lying on the main east-west trade route between Paris and Prague, and after the construction of the famous Stone Bridge in the 12th century, on the primary north-south trade route between Venice and Amsterdam, Regensburg’s wealth blossomed. Rich merchants built imposing residences with patrician towers after the Italian model, which still grace the city silhouette today. Churches and public buildings of great beauty and stature began to enhance the city.
With wealth came culture. Aside from its magnificent architecture, Regensburg acquired fame for its gold work, fabrics, music, printing and manuscript illumination and was home of the master painter Albrecht Altdorfer (1480-1538). The city’s religious influence spans centuries and once extended as far as Bohemia, and in 845 Bohemian princes came to Regensburg for baptism and religious instruction. Today the city remains primarily Catholic. Over the centuries it has been home to many important figures, including the astronomer Johannes Kepler and the Pope Benedict XVI, who taught theology and philosophy at the University of Regensburg.
Leaving the River Cloud early in the morning from Vilshofen, where we had docked due to low water levels south of Regensburg, we took a pleasant bus ride through the Bavarian Forest. Strolling through small streets on a city tour, we marveled at the elegant patrician houses of the rich medieval merchants. Passing by the Old City Hall where the Imperial Diet met, we found ourselves in front of the oldest coffee house in Germany, dating from 1686. On the street behind the Cathedral we caught the scent of Bratwurst near the Stone Bridge, where we had to sample the sausages at the famous Wurstküche, Germany’s oldest sausage kitchen, reputedly the canteen for the stonemasons at the bridge dating from 1135. This was the same period as the first Gothic church at St. Denis near Paris and the founding of the first European university in Bologna.
Nearby we saw the remains of the Roman Porta Praetoria, the northern gate to the legion’s encampment, where once some 6000 elite soldiers were housed. Passing through the gate, we strolled through the gracious residence of the bishops adjacent to the Cathedral of St. Peter. This imposing structure was begun in 1273 in French Gothic style about the same time as the expeditions of Marco Polo. It is home to the famous Regensburger Domspatzen (Cathedral Sparrows) Boys’ Choir, whose former director is the Pope’s brother. Across from the church was a secular treat: the extraordinary Hutmacher or millinery shop, some of whose excellent hats were later seen on board. We also enjoyed the 15-minute organ music there at noon, where the speaker recalled the 20 year anniversary of the prayers for peace in Leipzig, which led to the fall of the Berlin Wall.
At long last the Regensburg Cathedral will inaugurate its grand organ built by the firm Rieger on the 22nd of November, the day of Saint Cecelia, the patroness of music. The monumental organ situated high in the north transept of the church is suspended by four 3 cm steel cables, so as not to disrupt the ancient architecture of the church. In order for the organist to reach the manuals, a small elevator will be constructed. Some of us were proud to become patrons of specific organ pipes, since the organ will be funded entirely by private donations.
Bavarian specialties including white wurst and three kinds of Leberkäs were enjoyed under a great tent at the Thurn & Taxis Castle Café, and afterwards we toured the imposing castle. The Thurn and Taxis family held the first monopoly on postal services, and after 1748, the head of the family served as the representative of the Emperor to the Imperial Diet of the Holy Roman Empire. We toured the castle’s representative rooms, the family crypt and the ancient Church of St. Emmeram.
On our return to Vilshofen we saw the Wallhalla monument built by King Ludwig I of Bavaria to honor great Germans throughout history. A copy of the Parthenon in Athens, it bears the name Wallhalla, the home of the Nordic gods, in celebration of the relationship between ancient Greece and the Wittelsbacher Kingdom of the 19th century. This lengthy history stimulated much discussion at our farewell gourmet dinner on the River Cloud.