Glacier Bay, Alaska
What could be better than a sunny day in the heart of the largest protected wilderness area in the world? Glacier Bay was dressed in her very finest today. A cool breeze coursing down from her many glaciers chilled the morning air, but by noon a brilliant sun and a cloudless sky warmed our hearts.
Glacier Bay National Park is an integral part of this impressive wilderness. It is joined with Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park of British Columbia, which in turn is joined with Kluane National Park in Yukon Territory, which in turn is joined with Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park in Alaska. This World Wilderness Reserve encompasses almost 20 million Acres. Those of us on board Sea Bird share a common wish: that this commitment to future generations—a generous commitment by two nations—remains untouched for centuries. As John Muir demonstrated, massive and relentless glaciers shaped this land. The largest rivers of ice, including the Grand Pacific Glacier, have receded over the past two centuries. Even today, though, numerous smaller glaciers, each dragging rocks, gravel, sand and silt, continue to grind away at mountainous bedrock. Scenes unequalled anywhere are still being created, all without man’s interference.
We must accept, however, that the living systems of this bountiful area will change. Growth of new forests will prevail. Rounded mountains recently released from an icy grip will soon be enshrouded by temperate rainforest. Habitats suitable for some animal species will be eliminated, while at the same time new habitats attractive to other species will be created. Such is the case on South Marble Island. Seabirds nesting here are losing the preferred open-rock habitats as grasses and the bright fireweed pictured here add to the shallow soils. The stage is being set for larger shrubs and trees. Ironically, the birds are speeding their own demise by fertilizing the soils. The distant Grizzly (brown) Bear that almost eluded us in tall shrubs today will see its home range become less productive as spruces and hemlocks replace fruiting plants, alders and cottonwoods. The bear may drift toward the retreating glaciers, but will always remain in contact with the rich intertidal zone and salmon streams to add to its endless summer feast. Mountain Goats, on the other hand, can look forward to a fairly long future in the high alpine meadows and rugged cliffs. The growing season is short there; forest succession will have little effect.
What a memorable day! The prolonged evening sunset over the startling Fairweather Range seemed like a perfect ending. But the park’s magic had not yet ended. As we returned to the ship after a brisk walk, the northern sky came to life. Shimmering over us were the transcending glows of the aurora borealis.
Wilderness is a sweet tonic for renewal of the spirit.
