Watching sea otters at Idaho Inlet
Today we explored a small part of the wild expanse of Icy Strait. This body of water connects the northern Inside Passage with the open ocean of the Gulf of Alaska. As the tide turns, huge currents rip through this channel. Whirlpools and standing waves threaten boaters. Yet these currents stir the sea into a biological broth so rich that it reeks like Neptune’s bedclothes—an indefinable mix of scents, like fish and humus and caterpillars. All sorts of creatures gather to dine on Icy Strait’s abundance. We saw whales, seals, sea lions, sea otters, porpoises, and lengthy skeins of seabirds.
Transiting much of Icy Strait, we entered one of its tributary coves, Idaho Inlet, and dropped anchor. Soon we were experiencing Icy Strait at close range. Many of us went kayaking around Shaw Island. We glided over jade green water, peering down at the long fronds of kelp that rose from the depths to meet us. Sounds carried over the calm water—the tinkling of dripping paddles, the slight yet piercing cries of murrelets, and the deep gusty exhalations of humpback whales. Ashore we walked up a gravelly beach, through the undulating swales of a depositional shore, and into the forest. Shrill and angry cries greeted us from the treetops, for we were trespassing on the territory of fearsome red squirrels! When not venting their vocal fury on interlopers, these busy rodents build great middens of chewed-up spruce cones. We saw many manifestations of their diligence. But in truth, this country belongs to bears. Handsome trails lace through the land, all made and maintained by and for bears. We shared their territory, traveled their trails, and admired the impressively bulky end products of their digestion.
Back on the ship, we motored deeper into Idaho Inlet. This waterway is home to many sea otters, which plumb its depths for tasty clams, crabs, and urchins. Though otters here are generally retiring, we were able to get good views of several. Best of all was a sleeping otter that we approached very slowly and quietly. Though eventually coaxed into wakefulness, this otter seemed to cling to his dreams. He actually covered his eyes to keep out the light! Then he began some gentle skulling with both hind feet held dry and up in the air. Then one foot went down for more efficient swimming. Then two feet were wet, and the otter, seemingly remembering his element, sped off in a series of lithe and athletic backstroke dives.
Icy Strait bustles with life, and yet feels quiet and calm. Perhaps this seemingly contradictory combination explains the joy one feels at visiting.
Today we explored a small part of the wild expanse of Icy Strait. This body of water connects the northern Inside Passage with the open ocean of the Gulf of Alaska. As the tide turns, huge currents rip through this channel. Whirlpools and standing waves threaten boaters. Yet these currents stir the sea into a biological broth so rich that it reeks like Neptune’s bedclothes—an indefinable mix of scents, like fish and humus and caterpillars. All sorts of creatures gather to dine on Icy Strait’s abundance. We saw whales, seals, sea lions, sea otters, porpoises, and lengthy skeins of seabirds.
Transiting much of Icy Strait, we entered one of its tributary coves, Idaho Inlet, and dropped anchor. Soon we were experiencing Icy Strait at close range. Many of us went kayaking around Shaw Island. We glided over jade green water, peering down at the long fronds of kelp that rose from the depths to meet us. Sounds carried over the calm water—the tinkling of dripping paddles, the slight yet piercing cries of murrelets, and the deep gusty exhalations of humpback whales. Ashore we walked up a gravelly beach, through the undulating swales of a depositional shore, and into the forest. Shrill and angry cries greeted us from the treetops, for we were trespassing on the territory of fearsome red squirrels! When not venting their vocal fury on interlopers, these busy rodents build great middens of chewed-up spruce cones. We saw many manifestations of their diligence. But in truth, this country belongs to bears. Handsome trails lace through the land, all made and maintained by and for bears. We shared their territory, traveled their trails, and admired the impressively bulky end products of their digestion.
Back on the ship, we motored deeper into Idaho Inlet. This waterway is home to many sea otters, which plumb its depths for tasty clams, crabs, and urchins. Though otters here are generally retiring, we were able to get good views of several. Best of all was a sleeping otter that we approached very slowly and quietly. Though eventually coaxed into wakefulness, this otter seemed to cling to his dreams. He actually covered his eyes to keep out the light! Then he began some gentle skulling with both hind feet held dry and up in the air. Then one foot went down for more efficient swimming. Then two feet were wet, and the otter, seemingly remembering his element, sped off in a series of lithe and athletic backstroke dives.
Icy Strait bustles with life, and yet feels quiet and calm. Perhaps this seemingly contradictory combination explains the joy one feels at visiting.
