George Island, Elfin Cove, Inian Islands
Nearly all day the sea surface has looked like glass – an uncommon sight here at the edge of the open Pacific Ocean. This morning we anchored at Granite Cove on George Island. Hikers walked through young forest up and down steep hills to ruins of a WWII encampment, and to the 6 inch gun that points out towards Cross Sound. (Soldiers occasionally used Baird Glacier, visible across the sound, for target practice.) Kayakers paddled halfway around the island to a large sea arch. We investigated the coastline, paddling through kelp and nosing our kayaks close to the rocks beneath high cliffs. There we found sea stars in bright purples, oranges and reds, and some of us even saw an orange octopus! We later explored tidal pools, where we found countless, colorful invertebrates hiding under seaweeds and beneath rocks.
Mary Jo Lord, longtime resident of Elfin Cove, spoke to us about life in her very tiny and remote fishing community, where only 18 residents remain through winter. We strolled the boardwalks – the only ‘roads’ here – and saw the cozy inner harbor with its fishing boats and docks. We chatted with residents, and visited the small museum and the general store.
We then made a short transit to the Inian Islands, where currents can be strong as water is funneled between the open Pacific Ocean and the Inside Passage. Millions of salmon returning to inside waters to spawn will swim through here. Steller sea lions feed on them, gulls pick up the sea lions’ scraps, and numerous bald eagles catch fish and gull chicks. Sea otters rest in quiet coves and in near shore kelp beds. A humpback whale mother and calf swam among the islands. The sea lions haul out to rest on a rocky islet which is situated right in the middle of this area so filled with life. Beyond, there were beautiful views of distant, snow covered mountains.
Late in the afternoon we Zodiac cruised through this rich and productive area. Most of the sea lions were already in the water, and many of them swam near our small boats. As they surfed in unison towards us, leaping out of the water, I was reminded of watching trapeze artists; the animals moved with the utmost ease, grace and rhythm.
After dinner we stopped near Point Adolphus to watch a humpback whale mother and calf. After a breach, they swam quietly in the calm waters. Snow-covered mountaintops were visible in many directions in the waning, late twilight. Tomorrow will be the longest day of the year.
Nearly all day the sea surface has looked like glass – an uncommon sight here at the edge of the open Pacific Ocean. This morning we anchored at Granite Cove on George Island. Hikers walked through young forest up and down steep hills to ruins of a WWII encampment, and to the 6 inch gun that points out towards Cross Sound. (Soldiers occasionally used Baird Glacier, visible across the sound, for target practice.) Kayakers paddled halfway around the island to a large sea arch. We investigated the coastline, paddling through kelp and nosing our kayaks close to the rocks beneath high cliffs. There we found sea stars in bright purples, oranges and reds, and some of us even saw an orange octopus! We later explored tidal pools, where we found countless, colorful invertebrates hiding under seaweeds and beneath rocks.
Mary Jo Lord, longtime resident of Elfin Cove, spoke to us about life in her very tiny and remote fishing community, where only 18 residents remain through winter. We strolled the boardwalks – the only ‘roads’ here – and saw the cozy inner harbor with its fishing boats and docks. We chatted with residents, and visited the small museum and the general store.
We then made a short transit to the Inian Islands, where currents can be strong as water is funneled between the open Pacific Ocean and the Inside Passage. Millions of salmon returning to inside waters to spawn will swim through here. Steller sea lions feed on them, gulls pick up the sea lions’ scraps, and numerous bald eagles catch fish and gull chicks. Sea otters rest in quiet coves and in near shore kelp beds. A humpback whale mother and calf swam among the islands. The sea lions haul out to rest on a rocky islet which is situated right in the middle of this area so filled with life. Beyond, there were beautiful views of distant, snow covered mountains.
Late in the afternoon we Zodiac cruised through this rich and productive area. Most of the sea lions were already in the water, and many of them swam near our small boats. As they surfed in unison towards us, leaping out of the water, I was reminded of watching trapeze artists; the animals moved with the utmost ease, grace and rhythm.
After dinner we stopped near Point Adolphus to watch a humpback whale mother and calf. After a breach, they swam quietly in the calm waters. Snow-covered mountaintops were visible in many directions in the waning, late twilight. Tomorrow will be the longest day of the year.
