George Island, Elfin Cove & the Inian Islands

The sea around George Island was calm as calm can be on this 4th of July. On approach, around six in the morning, humpback whales arched and dove, throwing their flukes high as we slowly passed by. We had a gray ceiling above us; however the air was as clear and sharp as the water off the rocky coast. The low tide left sea stars, anemones, sponges and myriad more marine creatures for us to discover; many of these smaller gelatinous creatures looked like jellybeans in the cracks and crevices of the intertidal zone; many were under the long, green leaves of Laminaria, a simple-bladed kelp draped over the rocks.

Some hikers reached the top of George Island by following a trail through the beautiful temperate rainforest; others stayed in the lowlands and saw how the moist environment was gradually covering the remaining artifacts of the World War II army base. Kayakers and Zodiac riders went out on the glassy sea and saw humpbacks off-shore in coordinated diving patterns. We can only surmise that some sort of feeding was taking place, as their behavior above water consisted in protracted periods of what looked like heavy breathing, interspersed with long, deep dives. One individual got antsy a ways off, and started tail lobbing. Despite the distance, the smacking sound came over the ocean to us, a far-off message of unknown content.

Mary Jo Lord from Elfin Cove came to lunch today. The 4th of July was being celebrated in grand style in this boardwalk community, 18 of whom over-winter. In the summer the number burgeons to over 200 people, counting visitors and employees alike in the fishing lodges. When we arrived in “town” after lunch, it seemed everyone was gathered, hanging over the town’s central balcony watching the “bobbing for humpies” competition on the beach. This was closely followed by “Duck Bingo”. Unfortunately, the protagonist who in previous years has managed to choose a winner quickly, this year failed to do so. It wasn’t until his owner picked him up to carry him away that he finally let go, his owner’s jacket getting the result rather than the numbered board.

We left before the slug race and greased pole event started, opting for a diversion behind George Island to see if our humpback whales were still in the area, and boy, were they ever. The rest of the afternoon was spent following group after group of humpbacks. At one point off the Inian Islands, a feeding group of eight individuals came up practically under our bow. The Steller sea lions in the area frolicked riotously in the increasingly strong currents or sat on the rock, looking sleek in the evening light.

What a memorable Fourth of July it has been!