Magdalena Bay, Baja California Sur

The experience we all shared here in Boca de Soledad this morning was awe-inspiring, exciting and humbling. We cruised out in our Zodiacs for a day of whale watching, not knowing what would happen. All morning long, to our immense delight, we were surrounded by cow-calf pairs that blew bubbles and swam right underneath us. We were covered in spray from their mighty exhalations and examined in fascination the barnacles and whale lice that could be plainly seen, especially on the adults.

Not too many years ago, these majestic creatures were hunted nearly to extinction. Their population is healthy now thanks to protective measures instituted by the International Whaling Commission and the Mexican government. Gray whales today are like ambassadors for the cetacean world. They spark interest and even love in those who encounter them by the sheer force of their grace, curiosity and playfulness. The image of their immense bodies rolling and diving effortlessly, not to mention the astounding vision of that same incredible bulk launching out of the water in an ecstatic breach, will stay forever in our memories, reminding us of the need to protect them and their relatives. How could we feel differently after having the honor of looking into the eye of a whale?