Isla Magdalena, Baja California Sur
One could explore the shifting sands and twisted mangroves of Baja California’s barrier islands for days on end, strolling the wave-smoothed beaches and marching in step with the marching dunes. Yet even after a week or more, one would still find new things to awaken curiosity and a smile. The scenery is stark yet awesome. Distances are impossible to judge. Wind-whipped sand and sprawling plants – the latter tenaciously holding onto life – blend into countless images. And all the time, the roar of the ocean’s breakers beckons. We strolled and marched today, early in the misty morning and again late on the blustery afternoon. When we were not enjoying this moonscape of sand, we were venturing forth over the rippling waters of a coastal lagoon, sometimes shocked but always humbled by close encounters with magnificent gray whales. Mothers with new calves dominated our encounters, but a few females – presumably those still receptive to suitors – were also here, each closely followed by and often entangled with one or more randy males. The sudden whoosh of a whale as it emerged from the water within feet of our small boats may have triggered an initial fear in us. But smiles and laughter invariably followed. This is a species that was almost eliminated from Earth by man just 60 years ago. But now, with man’s protection, it has come back. Its fear of small boats is diminishing rapidly, with the result that we are enjoying an experience that few people in the world have ever had. With time and perseverance, gray whales will continue on, and those few will become many.
One could explore the shifting sands and twisted mangroves of Baja California’s barrier islands for days on end, strolling the wave-smoothed beaches and marching in step with the marching dunes. Yet even after a week or more, one would still find new things to awaken curiosity and a smile. The scenery is stark yet awesome. Distances are impossible to judge. Wind-whipped sand and sprawling plants – the latter tenaciously holding onto life – blend into countless images. And all the time, the roar of the ocean’s breakers beckons. We strolled and marched today, early in the misty morning and again late on the blustery afternoon. When we were not enjoying this moonscape of sand, we were venturing forth over the rippling waters of a coastal lagoon, sometimes shocked but always humbled by close encounters with magnificent gray whales. Mothers with new calves dominated our encounters, but a few females – presumably those still receptive to suitors – were also here, each closely followed by and often entangled with one or more randy males. The sudden whoosh of a whale as it emerged from the water within feet of our small boats may have triggered an initial fear in us. But smiles and laughter invariably followed. This is a species that was almost eliminated from Earth by man just 60 years ago. But now, with man’s protection, it has come back. Its fear of small boats is diminishing rapidly, with the result that we are enjoying an experience that few people in the world have ever had. With time and perseverance, gray whales will continue on, and those few will become many.
