Agua Verde and Puerto Gato, Baja California

The plan was to sleep in because of yesterday’s busy schedule, but our plans were foiled. A humpback whale spouted then fluked soon after the sun broke the horizon. Cameras clicked and buzzed each time the wide, droopy tail arced and disappeared into the sea. An immense group of common dolphins ruffled the calm water into a line of splashes carefully attended by hungry seabirds searching for prey. We watched the wheeling birds and leaping dolphins in their frenzy of feeding, then withdrew to the dining room for our own breakfast.

Bahia Agua Verde means green-water bay in Spanish, and the shallows at our morning anchorage lived up to this name. A white crescent of sand lured beachcombers off to discover bleached pelican bones, sea stars, and tiny hermit crabs. There was time to investigate the desert as well, where blooms of the white-barked palo blanco trees and lush green shoots provided evidence of rain earlier in the season.

Another way to explore this shoreline is by kayak. These colorful boats glided off past the desert hills towards the rugged volcanic cliffs that flanked the landing site. Paddles dipped and rose, flashing in the sunlight as each boat took advantage of the freedom and independence that this craft offers.

Back on the ship it seemed time for an afternoon nap, but then the blue whale appeared. For a few moments it lay just beneath the surface off the bow before diving.

Late afternoon found us at Puerto Gato for short walks on the peninsula and dinner ashore. The barbecue site was cradled by sculpted sandstone, ancient dunes hardened and eroded over time. The setting sun was soon replaced by a darkness that is so rare in many parts of our civilized world, illuminated by the crescent moon, brilliant stars, and the flickering bonfire.