Exploring Isla Del Carmen
As the sun rose behind Isla Monserrat many of us gathered on the aft section of the Sea Bird to capture the orange, purple and red hitting the water as the sun began a rapid rise to greet the day. Our vessel was on approach to Isla Del Carmen where we would be spending our entire day. Just off the bow was Arroyo Blanco, and the sight for this morning’s kayak operation. Just south of the anchorage was Arroyo Rojo, where several groups would be enjoying some exploration by foot into a colorful garden of desert plants and unusual rock formations.
Isla Carmen is one of the largest islands in the Gulf of California. It is 18.5 miles long from north to south and about 12 miles at its widest point near the northern end. A range of low mountain peaks from 500 to 1,500 feet high runs along the entire length of the island. Isla Del Carmen is not entirely a desert island with several sources of water located on the eastern side.
This morning, under spectacular conditions we would be exploring the rocky, precipitous shoreline from two small bays and a sandy beach, which provided an excellent landing for kayakers and for hikers. Kayakers spent their time exploring the edges of the cliffs that dropped into extraordinarily clear waters. Caves and inlets provided sanctuary for a myriad of species of fish along with the occasional bird, all enjoying the calm waters, just as the kayakers were. Paddling in and out of rock formations while watching above the water for the scurrying of crabs, insects and birds, or gazing below the surface of the water for the many schools of fish, the kayakers were able to observe this beautiful ecosystem from within it. All creatures were watching each other; each circling in and out of the warm sunlight and into the shadows for safety and comfort from the strong morning sun. All too soon it was time to finish our morning activities and return to the Sea Bird for our noonday meal. During lunch, our staff members all joined forces and left exploring, in search of a possible afternoon landing.
Isla Del Carmen has a long and interesting human history. There is a unique salt bed located at the northern end of the island. It is approximately two miles long and a half-mile wide. It was discovered by the Jesuits in 1697, when their ship the San Jose was taken into Bahia Salinas for repairs. And so began the harvest of a very fine grade of sea salt. Over the ensuing years a long line of concessionaires were allowed to lease these salt beds for development and production. As the salt bed on the island developed, Russian ships from Alaska began to visit Isla Del Carmen every three years to obtain salt. It was excellent for curing furs because of its purity. The island and its salt production exchanged hands many times over the next hundred years. It was owned by California, Oregon & Mexico Steamship Company which was associated with the Santa Fe Railroad, who invested considerable money in machinery and other improvements including a small railroad that was constructed at Bahia Salinas. In the early 1900’s the salt works were bought and sold several times and finally ended up in the hands of Pacific Salt Company Limited of London. As different salt producing areas of the Baja peninsula were discovered and exploited the salt works on Isla Carmen could not compete due to the high costs of running that operation. In 1978 it was necessary to close down the salt production plant, a process that was completed in 1983. After 278 years of salt harvest that began with the Jesuits, the small community of Bahia Salinas became a ghost town. At this time the owners, Salinas del Pacifico, S.A., who to this day still hold title to the island and the salt works, have designated the island as a biological reserve. In 1995, twenty six borregos cimarones, a protected species of longhorn sheep, were introduced to the island. In the vast territory of Isla Del Carmen, very occasionally sightings have been reported of these magnificent animals.
We arrived by Zodiac to Bahia Salinas after a spending some time snorkeling a ship wreck in the harbor; and from that ghost ship decorated with sea life, many of us made our way through the deserted buildings that had been buffeted by wind and weather for nearly 25 years, since the closure of the salt works. The sun cast long afternoon shadows through windows and roofless buildings. Textures and unusual shapes mixed with all that had been left by a once thriving community of people. The salt flats remain, brilliant in the sun, reminding us of its value, not just to the Jesuits and miners who came here but also the stories of the Native peoples who once inhabited the Baja peninsula and these islands. For thousands of years they considered Isla Del Carmen a paradise where the spirits of good people went when they died. In the last light of the day, we meandered through a quiet place aware of spirits who had left a small part of their presence in the shadows of buildings, rock and salt.
As the sun rose behind Isla Monserrat many of us gathered on the aft section of the Sea Bird to capture the orange, purple and red hitting the water as the sun began a rapid rise to greet the day. Our vessel was on approach to Isla Del Carmen where we would be spending our entire day. Just off the bow was Arroyo Blanco, and the sight for this morning’s kayak operation. Just south of the anchorage was Arroyo Rojo, where several groups would be enjoying some exploration by foot into a colorful garden of desert plants and unusual rock formations.
Isla Carmen is one of the largest islands in the Gulf of California. It is 18.5 miles long from north to south and about 12 miles at its widest point near the northern end. A range of low mountain peaks from 500 to 1,500 feet high runs along the entire length of the island. Isla Del Carmen is not entirely a desert island with several sources of water located on the eastern side.
This morning, under spectacular conditions we would be exploring the rocky, precipitous shoreline from two small bays and a sandy beach, which provided an excellent landing for kayakers and for hikers. Kayakers spent their time exploring the edges of the cliffs that dropped into extraordinarily clear waters. Caves and inlets provided sanctuary for a myriad of species of fish along with the occasional bird, all enjoying the calm waters, just as the kayakers were. Paddling in and out of rock formations while watching above the water for the scurrying of crabs, insects and birds, or gazing below the surface of the water for the many schools of fish, the kayakers were able to observe this beautiful ecosystem from within it. All creatures were watching each other; each circling in and out of the warm sunlight and into the shadows for safety and comfort from the strong morning sun. All too soon it was time to finish our morning activities and return to the Sea Bird for our noonday meal. During lunch, our staff members all joined forces and left exploring, in search of a possible afternoon landing.
Isla Del Carmen has a long and interesting human history. There is a unique salt bed located at the northern end of the island. It is approximately two miles long and a half-mile wide. It was discovered by the Jesuits in 1697, when their ship the San Jose was taken into Bahia Salinas for repairs. And so began the harvest of a very fine grade of sea salt. Over the ensuing years a long line of concessionaires were allowed to lease these salt beds for development and production. As the salt bed on the island developed, Russian ships from Alaska began to visit Isla Del Carmen every three years to obtain salt. It was excellent for curing furs because of its purity. The island and its salt production exchanged hands many times over the next hundred years. It was owned by California, Oregon & Mexico Steamship Company which was associated with the Santa Fe Railroad, who invested considerable money in machinery and other improvements including a small railroad that was constructed at Bahia Salinas. In the early 1900’s the salt works were bought and sold several times and finally ended up in the hands of Pacific Salt Company Limited of London. As different salt producing areas of the Baja peninsula were discovered and exploited the salt works on Isla Carmen could not compete due to the high costs of running that operation. In 1978 it was necessary to close down the salt production plant, a process that was completed in 1983. After 278 years of salt harvest that began with the Jesuits, the small community of Bahia Salinas became a ghost town. At this time the owners, Salinas del Pacifico, S.A., who to this day still hold title to the island and the salt works, have designated the island as a biological reserve. In 1995, twenty six borregos cimarones, a protected species of longhorn sheep, were introduced to the island. In the vast territory of Isla Del Carmen, very occasionally sightings have been reported of these magnificent animals.
We arrived by Zodiac to Bahia Salinas after a spending some time snorkeling a ship wreck in the harbor; and from that ghost ship decorated with sea life, many of us made our way through the deserted buildings that had been buffeted by wind and weather for nearly 25 years, since the closure of the salt works. The sun cast long afternoon shadows through windows and roofless buildings. Textures and unusual shapes mixed with all that had been left by a once thriving community of people. The salt flats remain, brilliant in the sun, reminding us of its value, not just to the Jesuits and miners who came here but also the stories of the Native peoples who once inhabited the Baja peninsula and these islands. For thousands of years they considered Isla Del Carmen a paradise where the spirits of good people went when they died. In the last light of the day, we meandered through a quiet place aware of spirits who had left a small part of their presence in the shadows of buildings, rock and salt.
