Astoria

All hands that are well employ’d in Cutting logs and raising our winter Cabins, detached two men to Split boards—Some rain at intervals all night to day—The flees were So troublesom last night that I made but a broken nights rest, we find great dificuelty in getting those trouble insects out of our robes and blankets…

William Clark, December 12, 1805

We awoke in the broad mouth of the mighty Columbia River this morning. After a 465 mile return journey down the Snake and Columbia Rivers from Clarkston, Washington, we had finally reached the sea. As the Sea Bird bobbed lightly in the ocean swell, we looked out into the broad Pacific Ocean and considered that our view might not be so different than the amazing sight that greeted Lewis and Clark when they reached the Pacific just over two hundred years ago. After a few more minutes of contemplation (and sightseeing), the Sea Bird carefully turned around and we sailed to our morning’s destination of Astoria, Oregon.

After breakfast, we docked at the Columbia River Maritime Museum. This amazing museum documents the rich history of the lower Columbia River. Exhibits focus on exploration and navigation on the river, as well as the dangerous Columbia River bar that earned this area the title, “Graveyard of the Pacific.” We also had the opportunity to visit the historic lightship Columbia that once stood at the mouth of the river as an important navigational marker for mariners.

Later in the morning, we visited the site of Fort Clatsop, Lewis and Clark’s winter quarters during 1805-1806. Our visit to the fort was considerably more pleasant than the time the Corps of Discovery spent here during that long winter. We explored the recently constructed replica of the historic fort. This replica replaces an older replica that burned down in the fall of 2005. The new replica presents a more historically accurate model of the rough-hewn, wooden fort. We also walked around the site of the fort and had our first encounter with the dense, temperate rainforest of coastal Oregon. Gazing at massive Sitka spruce trees, western redcedars, and clusters of bracken ferns, we could understand why the Corps spent such a rainy, uncomfortable winter here just over 200 years ago.

Heavy rains in the early afternoon did not deter us from further exploration. After lunch on board the Sea Bird, guests had numerous exploration options to consider. Many chose to visit the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Cape Disappointment, on the Washington shore. The museum contains a wonderful exhibit on Lewis and Clark, and provides amazing views of the Columbia River bar and the Pacific Ocean from its location on the edge of the ocean cliffs. Other guests wandered on their own through the historic streets of downtown Astoria, looking at the unique architecture and quirky shops in this maritime community. At the end of the day, as we pulled away from the docks in Astoria, we prepared to return upriver to Portland, and end of our amazing journey in the wake of Lewis and Clark.