Dominica
We arrived at our docking berth in Dominica at 8AM and we were cleared by 8:20. The lushness of this island was immediately apparent to all since the approach revealed the enormous bulk of the mountains, many still above the clouds. The mountains on this volcanic island rise to above 5 thousand feet. We boarded mini vans for the ride through the picturesque town of Portsmouth – the second city on the island with a population of approximately 6 thousand – on our way to Morne Diabolitin National Park, the site of the rain forest. The rain forest receives some 360 inches of rain per year. It is worth restating that that is 30 feet of rain! We divided into three groups. Today was the best day I have ever had in the forest for spotting the elusive endemic parrots of Dominica, the Jaco and the Cicero. These Amazonian basin parrots are protected and today I saw about 20, of course from a distance or flying overhead. We saw many species of birds and our guide Honoré was able to catch a Zandolin. These lizards are about 6 to 12 inches long and the male, which he caught and released, has a large light brown dewlap immediately beneath the throat. Honoré is an enormously talented bird caller and his ability to imitate the many species of birds from the Mountain Whistler to the Cisero to the Trembler is nothing short of remarkable. At one point it was as if the bird and Honroe were having a conversation, the one would call and the other would answer.
After our outing to the rain forest some of us visited Fort Shirley and some went snorkeling. Lennox Honychurch, a local historian, who was born on the island and has been the inspiration for the fort’s restoration, led us to the Fort. The fort was begun in 1765 and completed by 1820 and built almost entirely by slave labor. The fort is massive and spreads across most of the Cabarets headland but it has only been possible to recover a small part of the original. The fort never saw action and existed principally as a deterrent. It was designed by the 18th century American architect Harrison to protect the Royal Navy at anchor in Prince Rupert Bay as the canons could sweep the entire area in front of the town of Portsmouth. The fort is the reason for the foundation of the National Park. From the shoreline to one thousand feet is part of the Cabrits National Park and the fish are not hunted. The reef is in good condition and abounds with enormous barrel sponges, some so large that you could swim inside them. I saw tangs, grunts, and damselfish, parrot fish, and wrasses and probably a lot more, which I cannot recall at the moment. We were greeted on our arrival back on the Sea Cloud II with afternoon tea.
Tom Heffernan and Lennox Honychurch led the recap and we adjourned to another wonderful dinner just off the Isles des Saintes.
We arrived at our docking berth in Dominica at 8AM and we were cleared by 8:20. The lushness of this island was immediately apparent to all since the approach revealed the enormous bulk of the mountains, many still above the clouds. The mountains on this volcanic island rise to above 5 thousand feet. We boarded mini vans for the ride through the picturesque town of Portsmouth – the second city on the island with a population of approximately 6 thousand – on our way to Morne Diabolitin National Park, the site of the rain forest. The rain forest receives some 360 inches of rain per year. It is worth restating that that is 30 feet of rain! We divided into three groups. Today was the best day I have ever had in the forest for spotting the elusive endemic parrots of Dominica, the Jaco and the Cicero. These Amazonian basin parrots are protected and today I saw about 20, of course from a distance or flying overhead. We saw many species of birds and our guide Honoré was able to catch a Zandolin. These lizards are about 6 to 12 inches long and the male, which he caught and released, has a large light brown dewlap immediately beneath the throat. Honoré is an enormously talented bird caller and his ability to imitate the many species of birds from the Mountain Whistler to the Cisero to the Trembler is nothing short of remarkable. At one point it was as if the bird and Honroe were having a conversation, the one would call and the other would answer.
After our outing to the rain forest some of us visited Fort Shirley and some went snorkeling. Lennox Honychurch, a local historian, who was born on the island and has been the inspiration for the fort’s restoration, led us to the Fort. The fort was begun in 1765 and completed by 1820 and built almost entirely by slave labor. The fort is massive and spreads across most of the Cabarets headland but it has only been possible to recover a small part of the original. The fort never saw action and existed principally as a deterrent. It was designed by the 18th century American architect Harrison to protect the Royal Navy at anchor in Prince Rupert Bay as the canons could sweep the entire area in front of the town of Portsmouth. The fort is the reason for the foundation of the National Park. From the shoreline to one thousand feet is part of the Cabrits National Park and the fish are not hunted. The reef is in good condition and abounds with enormous barrel sponges, some so large that you could swim inside them. I saw tangs, grunts, and damselfish, parrot fish, and wrasses and probably a lot more, which I cannot recall at the moment. We were greeted on our arrival back on the Sea Cloud II with afternoon tea.
Tom Heffernan and Lennox Honychurch led the recap and we adjourned to another wonderful dinner just off the Isles des Saintes.
