Gustavia, St. Bartholemy (St. Barth’s)

After a week of exploring the forts, sugar mills, and other geographic aspects of the Antillean history, and after delighting in the precious preserves of its rainforests, reefs, and isolated beaches, it was time to delve into the other more contemporary aspect of the Caribbean: its upscale side.

Many islands are resorts and retreats of the rich and famous. Of these, St. Barth’s is easily the most well-known, and deservedly so. The renowned landmark of the French Caribbean is not only tres chic but vibrant and attractive. Galleries, cafes, high-end boutiques, and yachts abound. It is especially popular as a winter resort and yachting destination.

After leisurely strolls through this fashionable harbor flanked by red-roofed Mediterranean style villas climbing the surrounding hills, many retreated to a nearby local’s beach. Here urban sophisticates from around the world bronzed their bodies, and sipped exotic drinks from the beachfront bars. We, too, fit in, enjoying the myriad shells of this eponymous Shell Beach and basking in the warm tropical surf.

It must have been these pretty shells that got a local fisherman’s son interested in marine mollusks. For over 75 years, Monsieur Ingénu Magras, has been collecting shells from around the world; at first trading through pen pals and later through travel. Mon. Magras has assembled over 10,000 specimens. Now partially blind and deaf, Mon. Magras graciously yielded to our special request to enjoy his collection.

Voluble and still enthusiastic, Mon. greeted us in the small museum which he has constructed over the years as an extension of his modest home in the nearby fishing village of Corossol. Here he proudly pointed out his myriad treasures from memory as he led us around his cabinets of molluscans curiosities.

For many who enjoyed Mon. Magras company, passion, and lovely shells, his will be the memory that we treasure most of St. Barths and not the glitz and glamour of the harbor.