Cabrits, Dominica
After a lovely night’s sailing, under a full moon, passing Martinique, we tied up at the wooden dock at Cabrits National Park on the wooded island of Dominica. This independent country was the island in the Caribbean that had been last to be colonized, but it eventually became a scene of sugar production and the last stop for African slaves. Today it is the home to people who must struggle to make a living but who choose to stay on their little Eden rather than emigrate like so many of their relatives and friends.
In the morning, we travelled up the mountain into a tropical rain forest, where, indeed, it hardly rained. Long, leisurely walks guided by local naturalists illuminated the surroundings, so that we could see the trees from the forest. Various plants were used for very different purposes, and each native tree was used for a special need – dugout canoes, ax handles, siding for houses. At the end of the walk, one could try the local beer, a coconut punch, or sorrel juice, the local holiday drink.
Lunch was back on the ship, and it was followed by a brief introduction to Dominica by the extraordinary Lenox Honeychurch. Lenox was born in Portsmouth, the second largest town of the country, and was educated at Oxford. He chose to return to his country, write the history of the Caribbean, and work on the restoration of Fort Shirley, the hillside fortification that protected the British hold over Prince Rupert’s Bay and the island of Dominica. Lenox led a walking tour up to the Fort and told in loving detail the history of the fort, which never actually had to fire a shot to protect the harbor, and the tale of its restoration. This was clearly a labor of love and a dedicated life’s work.
In the afternoon some of us swam and snorkeled, others went SCUBA diving, and still others took walks or simply sunned themselves in between the warm rain squalls that punctuated the second half of the day. Afternoon tea, more reading, and conversation, soon gave way to dinnertime.
Tonight we had our first recap. Roger gave us a short history of sugar, the source of Caribbean wealth and current problems. Ron Suny spoke briefly about Dominica and the American “invasion” of Grenada. Our Expedition Leader, Tom O’Brien, brought us up to date on our plans for tomorrow.
After dinner, there was a showing of the video “Around Cape Horn.” All in all, a very full day!
After a lovely night’s sailing, under a full moon, passing Martinique, we tied up at the wooden dock at Cabrits National Park on the wooded island of Dominica. This independent country was the island in the Caribbean that had been last to be colonized, but it eventually became a scene of sugar production and the last stop for African slaves. Today it is the home to people who must struggle to make a living but who choose to stay on their little Eden rather than emigrate like so many of their relatives and friends.
In the morning, we travelled up the mountain into a tropical rain forest, where, indeed, it hardly rained. Long, leisurely walks guided by local naturalists illuminated the surroundings, so that we could see the trees from the forest. Various plants were used for very different purposes, and each native tree was used for a special need – dugout canoes, ax handles, siding for houses. At the end of the walk, one could try the local beer, a coconut punch, or sorrel juice, the local holiday drink.
Lunch was back on the ship, and it was followed by a brief introduction to Dominica by the extraordinary Lenox Honeychurch. Lenox was born in Portsmouth, the second largest town of the country, and was educated at Oxford. He chose to return to his country, write the history of the Caribbean, and work on the restoration of Fort Shirley, the hillside fortification that protected the British hold over Prince Rupert’s Bay and the island of Dominica. Lenox led a walking tour up to the Fort and told in loving detail the history of the fort, which never actually had to fire a shot to protect the harbor, and the tale of its restoration. This was clearly a labor of love and a dedicated life’s work.
In the afternoon some of us swam and snorkeled, others went SCUBA diving, and still others took walks or simply sunned themselves in between the warm rain squalls that punctuated the second half of the day. Afternoon tea, more reading, and conversation, soon gave way to dinnertime.
Tonight we had our first recap. Roger gave us a short history of sugar, the source of Caribbean wealth and current problems. Ron Suny spoke briefly about Dominica and the American “invasion” of Grenada. Our Expedition Leader, Tom O’Brien, brought us up to date on our plans for tomorrow.
After dinner, there was a showing of the video “Around Cape Horn.” All in all, a very full day!
