Bourg, Terre de Haute, Iles des Saintes, Guadalupe

A tranquil sail north from Dominica gave no clue to the fierce battle which once raged for control of this region. Hoping to capitalize on England’s engagement with the American Revolution, the French attempted a series of invasions, with the ultimate goal of capturing Jamaica. On a fair April day in 1782, almost 70 ships fought the largest naval battle of the Western Hemisphere. Tactics employed by Admiral Rodney (which later inspired Lord Nelson’s victory at Trafalgar) won the day for England and put an end to French expansion, both in the Caribbean and the Americas. But while the French lost the battle, they may have won by keeping Guadeloupe her small apron of small islands.

As a consequence of the curious history of the Caribbean, we technically entered the European Union, as the islands are still part of France and Euros are currency. After fresh baguettes and coffee, we visited the well-preserved Fort Napoleon which overlooks the quaint Old World village and harbor. With its excellent view of the surrounding archipelago, the fort and its museum seem more like gardens than fortifications. The silenced cannons now guard a collection of native and exotic succulents and platoon of lazy iguanas which are erratic about their sentry duties.

To refresh ourselves, we took Zodiacs to a hidden beach for bathing and snorkeling.
Snorkelers floated over the turquoise waters observing squid, eels, and a host of butterfly fish and wrasses. Many of our guests attempted snorkeling for the first time, to their delight and amazement.

Later in the evening, after a wonderful on-deck barbecue, we were introduced to both the history and taste of grog. This segued into renditions of sea shanties, sung, if not melodically, at least exuberantly, in several languages. We then went to bed with balmy breezes and barmy songs still sounding in our heads.