Ile des Saintes
In marked contrast to Dominica, the Iles des Saintes lack rainfall, being in a rain shadow, a region lacking precipitation leeward of a mountain range. In consequence, plantation agriculture was impossible and the seven islands that make up this delightful archipelago to the south of Guadeloupe remained undeveloped. Fort Napoleon dominates the town of Bourg and was our destination in the morning. From its ramparts there were superlative views over the bay, with Sea Cloud II at anchor. Inside the fort a botanical garden had been developed, specializing in varieties of cactus. Iguana lounged in the trees, or looked out from shady gaps in the walls. Inside the barracks were two floors of museum exhibits, one of the best collections in the Caribbean. At the heart of the exhibit were several rooms devoted to the Battle of the Saints, with fine scale models of the Formidable and the Ville de Paris, the flagships respectively of Admirals Lord George Rodney and Count de Grasse. An adjoining carronade room had models of the battle as it unfolded on that fateful day, 12th April 1782, with examples of the new weapon that had helped secure victory for the British. Outside on the ramparts we discovered an even batter example of a carronade, the short-barreled lightweight cannon resembling a mortar and taking charged shot, which was so devastating at close range. The present buildings date from 1844. Interestingly, the French and British continued to garrison their respective islands keeping a wary eye on each other for half a century after Waterloo. It was only when the French and British found themselves on the same side during the Crimean War that these Caribbean garrisons were finally abandoned. By then, beet sugar and steam ships were sounding a death knell for the age of sugar and sail and the Caribbean had to adjust to new times and conditions.
Tourism is now the mainstay of the Caribbean economy. The bustling little township of Bourg beneath the fort was comprised of dive shops, restaurants, bars and cycle hire depots. As this island belongs to Guadeloupe, part of France Outremer, all this was presented with Gallic charm and panache. We enjoyed the remainder of the morning stylishly, therefore, either sauntering through the streets of Bourg or taking a Zodiac to a nearby beach for swimming and snorkeling.
After a fine afternoon's sailing off the lee shore of Dominica we enjoyed a magnificent deck barbecue - the latter a rare example of Carib word that found its way into English (along with the word hammock). After dinner we were entertained by the Sea Cloud II Shanty Singers, an experience the more pleasurable - not to say bearable - for being accompanied by a tot of grog.
In marked contrast to Dominica, the Iles des Saintes lack rainfall, being in a rain shadow, a region lacking precipitation leeward of a mountain range. In consequence, plantation agriculture was impossible and the seven islands that make up this delightful archipelago to the south of Guadeloupe remained undeveloped. Fort Napoleon dominates the town of Bourg and was our destination in the morning. From its ramparts there were superlative views over the bay, with Sea Cloud II at anchor. Inside the fort a botanical garden had been developed, specializing in varieties of cactus. Iguana lounged in the trees, or looked out from shady gaps in the walls. Inside the barracks were two floors of museum exhibits, one of the best collections in the Caribbean. At the heart of the exhibit were several rooms devoted to the Battle of the Saints, with fine scale models of the Formidable and the Ville de Paris, the flagships respectively of Admirals Lord George Rodney and Count de Grasse. An adjoining carronade room had models of the battle as it unfolded on that fateful day, 12th April 1782, with examples of the new weapon that had helped secure victory for the British. Outside on the ramparts we discovered an even batter example of a carronade, the short-barreled lightweight cannon resembling a mortar and taking charged shot, which was so devastating at close range. The present buildings date from 1844. Interestingly, the French and British continued to garrison their respective islands keeping a wary eye on each other for half a century after Waterloo. It was only when the French and British found themselves on the same side during the Crimean War that these Caribbean garrisons were finally abandoned. By then, beet sugar and steam ships were sounding a death knell for the age of sugar and sail and the Caribbean had to adjust to new times and conditions.
Tourism is now the mainstay of the Caribbean economy. The bustling little township of Bourg beneath the fort was comprised of dive shops, restaurants, bars and cycle hire depots. As this island belongs to Guadeloupe, part of France Outremer, all this was presented with Gallic charm and panache. We enjoyed the remainder of the morning stylishly, therefore, either sauntering through the streets of Bourg or taking a Zodiac to a nearby beach for swimming and snorkeling.
After a fine afternoon's sailing off the lee shore of Dominica we enjoyed a magnificent deck barbecue - the latter a rare example of Carib word that found its way into English (along with the word hammock). After dinner we were entertained by the Sea Cloud II Shanty Singers, an experience the more pleasurable - not to say bearable - for being accompanied by a tot of grog.
