Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve
This morning there was a cloak of fog and rain as we entered Glacier Bay National Park. The MV Sea Lion quietly motored into Bartllet Cove to pick up Laura our National Park Service guide for the day. Shortly after 0630 Laura called us to the bow for a diving humpback whale. After careful observations we realized there were at least two humpbacks off the bow and another four animals to the east of the ship off Strawberry Island. Laura mentioned that due to the intense tidal rip and numerous islands, upwelling fuels the surface with cold nutrient rich seawater from the deep. Mixed with sunshine, this soup produces plankton, which in turn attracts a myriad of fishes into these waters. And we know what whales love to eat-----FISH! As we motored north a humpback surfaced right off the bow and traveled down the side of the ship. As we all turned the animal fluked and slid into the dark gray waters.
After breakfast Captain Delisle brought the ship up to South Marble Island to scan for our winged friends. Sure enough in the waters just off the island were rafts of common murres, tufted puffins, blacklegged kittiwakes and the greatest surprise, three bald eagles eagerly awaiting eggs and or chicks from the birds nesting on the island. Towards the north end of the island a large group of Steller sea lions were hauled out on the rocky shore. Mostly males and juvenile females, these sea lions use the island for rest and to feed in the surrounding rich waters (see photo below).
Further north we ventured into Tidal Inlet and were pleasantly surprised by a large raft of surf scoters. These spectacular sea ducks love to munch on mussels. Given the strong tidal current in the inlet and the rich productive waters, we speculated they were probably dining in the area.
Up along the slopes we spotted dozens of mountain goats. Glacier Bay Park has a healthy population of mountain goats that take advantage of the vegetation on the high slopes. A good strategy if you want to avoid the larger predators and avoid competition for your lunch!
During lunch the officers of the MV Sea Lion positioned the ship at the end of Tarr Inlet at the face of Marjorie Glacier (see photo below).
Twenty-one miles long and one mile across, this particular tide-water glacier is quite active. As folks finished up lunch and started out onto the decks you could hear the “white thunder” the Tlingit expression for the thundering sound of a calving glacier. Blacklegged kittiwakes and common terns were plunge diving across the face of the glacier plucking up small plankters stirred up by the calving ice.
The ship left the waters of Tarr Inlet and headed south. Laura suggested we take a quick look at Lamplugh Glacier. The face of the glacier is approximately three quarters of a mile wide and over 150 feet high at the face. The glacier heads in the Brady Ice-field, which lies east of the Fairweather Range. Large sub-glacial streams discharge large volumes of sediment rich water into the fjord creating a wedge of brown milky water across the glacier face.
Further south we ventured into Geikie Inlet. As we began to scan the shores for wildlife a black bear lumbered out into view. This particular had a black shiny coat. At first there was some speculation it might be a brown bear due to the muscled back and fore legs. But Sharon spied the unique brown muzzle on these animals and we were able to make the identification.
Later in the evening we headed for Bartlett Cove to drop off our Laura. Some of us went ashore for hikes in the forest and beach area. Lovely sounds of thrush, wren, warbler and robins filled the forest. Along the beach we found beautiful inter-glacial stumps and polished rocks. We could hear the sound of the local “hooters” as well. Male blue grouse hoot during the mating season to advertise their availability and virility to females in the area. By 2300 we were all back on board and the MV Sea Lion started to make way for our mornings adventures.
