We awoke today to snow covered trees, ribbons of mist circling the lower reaches of Mt. Randolph and Moose Mountain. Early morning sunshine reflected off high snowfields, sending shimmering patterns over the waters of Stevens Passage. The Sea Lion was cruising south, with Admiralty Island off to the west, the mainland of S.E. Alaska to the east heading for the entrance of Tracy Arm. We had two activities planned for the day. Our morning was spent at Williams Cove where hikes and kayaking were offered.
Once kayaks were brought ashore along with kayakers and hikers the two respective groups set out for a last long look at the temperate rain forest; one from the land one from the sea. The hikers set out looking at the shore environment leading into the forest. We sampled the new shoots of fireweed, examined muscles and seaweed strewn along the beach. Moving slowly towards the edge of the forest we discovered emerging plants, pushing their way up through the soil and mosses. There were Chocolate lilies, yarrow, nagoon berry, false lily of the valley, all sending up leaves folded like circular fans. We were following a bear trail that led under the protective curtain of the forest. Once inside the layer of Sitka alder we found the protected world of the under story of a temperate rain forest. The morning rain had washed the forest and vivid shades of green sparkled with raindrops. We examined lichens, slime molds, twisted stalk and then took a moment to watch the sunlight play upon the towering Sitka spruce and Western hemlock. All to soon we found ourselves exiting the forest and making our way along the shoreline back to the Zodiac landing. The kayakers were just returning from a blissful cruise around Williams cove. Having watched Common loons, Surf scooters, Ravens and several other species of birds, not to mention some wonderful blue ice that had drifted into the bay from Sawyer Glacier. This left most kayakers content to return to the landing having enjoyed a final paddle of the trip.
As soon as all kayaks and Zodiacs were brought back to the ship the Sea Lion began her slow passage up into Tracy Arm. Our day had been rearranged due to observations made by the bridge of the Sea Lion early this morning. Why would we want to go up into a narrow Alaskan fjord with three large cruise ships? Why not wait for them to exit, and then enter and have the fjord to ourselves! As our morning progressed we had watched two of those three boats leave Tracy Arm….as we entered the fjord, just after lunch and were on approach to our first waterfall, the third ship began her departure. Perfect timing! We would spend the afternoon alone, exploring two branches of the Sawyer Glacier.
Zodiacs were launched, and shortly three boats began their respective journeys heading for the face of the glacier. Making our way through the many varied sizes of ice shed by Sawyer glacier we weaved in and out exploring this unusual world of ice, water, rock and the few animals and plants that call this home. The rock walls of this fjord are the early homes of some tough customers in the plant world. Small-dwarfed willows crawled up the rock walls supported in the narrow rock ledges where soil had begun a profile upon a bed of lichen. Sitka alders in the form of shrubs huddled tightly along much of the rock walls.
In the ice packed up against the east wall of the fjord were many harbor seals with brand new pups! These seals retreat to the face of the glacier and the safety of the ice flows to have their pups; out of the way of predators.
As our three Zodiacs reached some open water near the front of the glacier, we noticed a fourth boat following at some distance. The Hotel Manager Judie Blewitt was on her way with her crew ready to deliver hot chocolate, schnapps and excellent cookies for an impromptu tea in front of Sawyer Glacier. As the sound of “white thunder” echoed through the fjord, we sipped a hot drink, taking in the richness of our experience….mixing the sounds of Arctic terns, Bald eagles, wind off the two hundred foot tall glacier, in front of us and the falling of small pieces of ice as Sawyer glacier calved ever so slightly on the ebb tide of this full moon day….
